The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

REGORTLC · * Joined: 04 Jul 2008 Posts: 27

Hi, Rear diff oil seal is leaking badly. I have purchased the outer pinion bearing and oil seal from Roughtrax with the view of tackling the job myself but having looked up the procedure in Ellerys removal is easy enough but the job of replacing looks far from straight forward, pinion nut torque, preload etc. Any advice welcome. Thanks

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Roger Fairclough · Posted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 13:13 Post subject:

This item was covered a few weeks ago. Scroll down 6 strings on the 80 forum.

Roger

REGORTLC · * Joined: 04 Jul 2008 Posts: 27

Checked it out, many thanks.

REGORTLC · * Joined: 04 Jul 2008 Posts: 27

Hi Roger, further to looking at your procedure regarding the rear diff. I think it may be worth having a go at replacing just the outer pinion bearing and oil seal only at this time in the hope of stopping the leak, (as no whine or undue noise is evident). You list the procedure you have given in the thread (6th reply) where you point out the procedure of just the outer bearing and oil seal. I understand that preload is very important but it seems by your thread it is doable as long as I strictly adhere to the torque settings. Any further advice would be appreciated before I have a crack at it.

Roger Fairclough · Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 12:59 Post subject:

The problem is the collapsible spacer tube between the bearings.

You can't reuse it.

In the (good) old days the spacer was a non collapsing type and preload was set with the use of shims. You could remove the flange, pull out the seal, fit a new one, put back the flange and torque up the nut. Less than an hour including removing the propshaft.

I will assume you have removed the seal, bearing and old spacer and fitted a new one along with the bearing a new seal the flange and the nut is tightened enough to contact the flange.

Now go and have a coffee because the next bit requires your absolute attention.

The manual says tighten the nut to 145 ft-lb and then check the preload with a torque meter. This should be between 7.8 - 11.3 in.-lb. If the preload is insufficient you are allowed to tighten the nut a bit at a time until preload is reached. The trouble is if you exceed the preload at the initial tightening ( or subsequent tightening) you need to start all over again with a new tube.

This is why I recommend you use a dial gauge to check the slop as you slowly tighten the nut. Once all the slop has gone you can check the preload and continue tightening until the get to the right figure. You must not tighten the nut whilst using the teeth on the crown wheel/pinion as this could cause catastrophic damage. You must use a flange locking bar. A piece of steel bar 50mm x 8mm x 600mm suitably drilled to bolt to the flange will work.

Roger

REGORTLC · * Joined: 04 Jul 2008 Posts: 27

Hi Roger, thanks for your reply. I'll take your advice on board and have a cup of coffee now or perhaps something a bit stronger after reading your thread. The problem is I don't think I have the necessary skill or equipment to be certain of getting it right knowing how critical the job is, preload etc without the danger of messing it up. The local garage at MOT initially pointed out the leak as advisory.

Many thanks for your time and patience.

Roger.

REGORTLC · * Joined: 04 Jul 2008 Posts: 27

Following on, just had a word with local garage who are willing to tackle the job in the hope of curing the leak by just replacing the outer pinion bearing and oil seal by the procedure mentioned. In addition to the bearing, oil seal and pinion nut I have ordered the collapsible spacer as part of the job. Heres hoping it will cure the problem without having a complete strip down.