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Vibration after 7k of parts and labor:)

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Alex vc3

Joined: 08 Jan 2019
Posts: 1
Location: Montenegro

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 20:33    Post subject: Vibration after 7k of parts and labor:) Reply with quote


I am not from UK, but I am desperate. I changed almost everything on my 2010, LC150, 3.0D4D,manual,140KW and I still have steering wheel vibration. Steering wheel shakes at 100-120 km/h. While trying to solve this problem I changed:

New tires (3 sets tried)
New rims and few sets of used ones from newer cars
Rotors and brake pads (twice)
All wheel hubs and bearings
All wheel bolts and nuts
All worn rubber parts and suspension parts
Engine mounts and transmission mounts
New shock absorbers
New clutch kit and flying wheel!
Balanced propeller shafts and checked joints
Demounted drive shafts and checked joints
Rack and pinion Ok
Did wheel alignment and wheel balancing number of times, even on Hunter road force

Steering wheel is still vibrating. Not all the time, there is some specific small part of the road which has waves when it doesn't.
Also, every time a car spend few hours or days lifted while doing some service trying to fix this problem:), vibration dissapear for short time and than comes back.

If anyone can have any idea what can be the cause, I would be GRATEFUL!!!
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 20:33    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!

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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 167
Location: Sunny Northamptonshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 23:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a long shot, but i had a similar (really violent) vibration issue on an articulated truck back in the 80's.

It was fine for hundreds of miles but at a speed of around 40 mph if you found a set of road undulations that set up the right bounce frequency the wheel would shake so violently that it could be seen leaving the road.
That turned out to be a weak shock absorber, but exacerbated by the very generous central automatic lubing system of the vehicle (all multi leaf springs) meaning the spring leaves would lose their own natural damping ability by rubbing gently against each other as they do, because the springs were soaking wet in oil.
A new shock absorber plus removing autolube from those spring shackles and fitting grease nipples instead cured the problem.

Obviously you don't have any real damping effect of the spring because it's a coil, so the shock absorber has to provide all damping, though the spring itself could be weak that side, kerbside springs tend to get a harder life due to drains and worse road damage near the kerb.
The wishbone bushes may help provide some damping too, so possible an issue there but clutching at straws here, also were the new dampers a quality product?
Is the hub spigot a good tight sliding fit with the wheel?
Front diff got plenty of oil, props well greased and have you repacked the front drive shafts with the proper CV grease?
Brake calipers working well, pins lubed, pistons free in their bores and lubed with the correct specific brake grease?

In cases like this, if you know a section of road you can provoke the vibration on, it can be revealing if you get an assistant to drive your vehicle whilst you follow (or you drive and get your mechanic to watch) and watch from all angles, sometimes damping/crabbing/tracking and other issues show themselves when all normal ways of diagnosis have failed, easy enough for a passenger in the following car to video this problem happening to peruse later at home.
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Roger Fairclough

Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 1579
Location: Redditch Worcestershire

PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 11:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

You didn't mention steering damper. A major problem can be road surface ie condition of. If you habitually drive on poor road surfaces a heavy duty steering damper might be the answer.

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Joined: 16 Dec 2003
Posts: 1885
Location: Polegate, Sussex, England.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 13:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think the 150 series has a damper, as anything with a rack doesn't seem to need one.
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