2Gether FS : 01945 585322

The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club
Landcruiser Club - Dedicated to Toyota Landcruiser, Amazon, Colorado and Prado Owners
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   Watched TopicsWatched Topics   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your personal messagesLog in to check your personal messages   Log inLog in 
TLOCUK HomeTLOCUK Home   TLOCUK ForumsTLOCUK Forums  TLOCUK FaceBook GroupTLOCUK FaceBook Group
Click here to link to the South African LandCruiser Owners Club websiteLCCSA  Click here to link to the Australian LandCruiser Owners OnLine website - possibly the longest established Land Cruiser club on the net!LCOOL  Click here to link to the IH8MUD website - run by extremely enthusiastic Land Cruiser owners, with a fantastic source of DIY information and useful forum!IH8MUD  Yellow Diamond ClubsYellow Diamond Clubs

1kz-te engine change and temperature monitor


 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club Forum Index -> 90 Series / Prado / Colorado Technical Forum
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
funkydung
Newbie


Joined: 22 Oct 2018
Posts: 8
Location: nORTH yORKSHIRE

PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2019 10:22    Post subject: 1kz-te engine change and temperature monitor Reply with quote

Hi all. Perhaps someone can give some tips on swapping an engine. (Like for like)
I have had a 99 colorado gx since 2003 and quite early in my ownership, head crack symptoms showed but garages failed to diagnose.  Last Feb I had an electrical fault whereby the headlights came on by themselves.  This caused the car to be laid up for a couple of months til I got round to sorting it. When I cranked it over, it hydrolocked and started. Although roughly.  This is when I decided to pull the head, and cylinder 3 showed corrosion and the piston at tdc was about 4mm down!! Bent conrod!! I have bought a rotten 2000 fx colly for the engine but the haynes manual is less than clear when explaining the engine removal. Any tips would be very welcome.
Ps i have another colorado  (1997) which cracked the head on a steady long run to Scotland  (lots of white smoke on tickover but ran ok. Also temp never rose above normal) so I put a AMC head on and new rad , fan oil , new stat etc AND fitted an engine guard temperature display attached to the head.  Under normal round town driving and on short motorway runs DOESN'T get above 80 degc.  Has anyone here fitted one of these because the typical Temps for this vehicle( for towing and normal driving )would be very interesting.
Pps I will NEVER run a 1kz  te again without an engine guard. Highly recommended
Thanks
Richard
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Google
Sponsor





PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2019 10:22    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


Back to top
diggerdave
****


Joined: 03 Oct 2014
Posts: 448
Location: Bubwith

PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2019 11:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

The standard thermostat is set at 82 degrees. I assume that the engine guard measures the coolant temperature? If so, doesn't 80 degrees sound about right (give or take a couple of degrees for the inherent inaccuracy of the device and variation according to where it is measuring from)?

Another thing that people do is fit a 76 degree thermostat, which was supposedly fitted to some foreign market 1KZ-TEs. I did this 50,000 miles ago because I found the idea persuasive, although there are those who disagree. The 76 degree stat I used was by Jakoparts. According to my notes the equivalent Toyota 76 degree stat is 90916-03119 for reference.

The theory has been put forward that the 1KZ-TE's cooling system is only just adequate because in the Japanese domestic market cars rarely do long motorway miles. SO what amounts to a decent safety margin in the home market equates to a wafer thin margin when they are used for lengthy, fast highway journeys and all it takes is a slight flaw in the cooling system. I find the theory quite persuasive...
_________________
1997 KZJ90 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 217k hard miles
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
funkydung
Newbie


Joined: 22 Oct 2018
Posts: 8
Location: nORTH yORKSHIRE

PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 9:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for reply.
Because of the  age of my colorado and the fact that a towbar and twin power socket installed, I believe that it's earlier life (  caravan, long miles)was harder than what I have done to it, implying cause of overheating likely to be questionable viscous fan peformance ,and dirt and debris from the corroding aircon rad /condenser restricting good airflow through cooling rad WHEN the thermostat does open. (ALL  3 of my collys radiators have shown significant external Blockages  (roughly in the shape of the cooling fan ). Therefore I have removed the aircon system so this won't happen again.
I am trying to compile people's experience in order to finally understand and prevent it happening again.
My experiences:
99 gx 1kz te. bought 2003 70k miles
Approx 2008 rear heater pipe corroded,  overheated
Topped up coolant regularly for 10yr! ! Overheated 2 or more times til leak found and disconnected.
Water leaking into Cyl 3 caused hydrolock and conrod bent
Head off .corrosion on cly3 .no obvious head crack. Could it be crack in Cyl wall?

97 gx 1kz te  bought 2017 160 miles fsh caravan towbar fitted. One owner for most of cars life
Head checked and ok when purchased.  
After long steady run white smoke
NO overheating shown on standard temp gauge
Head off. Crack between valves above cylenders 2,3 and4.
Amc head fitted with engine guard sensing head surface temperature NOT coolant temp.
Haven't towed with it yet
Will post head Temps when I dare  to tow

As I have said already, all 1kz te owners with original rads , check now. Most likely blocked
Especially if aircon rad is turning to dust!!!.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
funkydung
Newbie


Joined: 22 Oct 2018
Posts: 8
Location: nORTH yORKSHIRE

PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 9:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone fitted a top hose stat and removed bottom hose stat?
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
diggerdave
****


Joined: 03 Oct 2014
Posts: 448
Location: Bubwith

PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 9:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree about the aircon rad. It blocks some airflow itself and it traps gunk and grot between itself and the coolant rad. Binned mine as soon as I got the car.

I don't know whether it would be practical to re-locate it if you want to retain the aircon; all that would really be needed is a bigger gap between the two rads so you could regularly get in there with a brush or hand to get rid of any accumulated dirt. Even better if it could also be moved to one side as well, reducing the area of the coolant rad that it blocks.
_________________
1997 KZJ90 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 217k hard miles
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
funkydung
Newbie


Joined: 22 Oct 2018
Posts: 8
Location: nORTH yORKSHIRE

PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 19:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

So.... has anyone changed an engine? Or anyone with aftermarket temp gauge got real temperatures when towing or working hard?
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Mike TLC
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 21 May 2010
Posts: 57
Location: France

PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2020 14:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old thread but still relevant:

I have a 12/1999 1KZ-TE that blew the head gasket at 125 000 km. New head and radiator under guarantee from Toyota. It has now done 240 000 km with no problems of any kind.

I put in a 76°C thermostat and threaded a temp sender into the coolant collector (engine top left) just after the head repair. The temp gauge is on the dash and accuracy was tested by my garage.

Engine idle temp is 74° all year round.

In winter on a long motorway haul I rarely get above 70°/74° except when on long climbs.

Note that the thermostat is open and that it’s a 76° version, so the inner engine coolant temp is obviously a lot hotter than my collector mounted temp gauge is indicating.
In summer I will get 76-80° on the motorway quite easily.

However, it is very easy to exceed 80°+ on long steep climbs both in the summer and winter (French Alps, Pyrenees or things like Cairn o’ Mount in Scotland). My aftermarket gauge needle just climbs and climbs and will only stop doing so when I reach the top… Shocked . Not very reassuring. I have never had to push it above 83°. I do not tow (ever)…

I did have some links to off-roaders down under that had exactly the same experience as mine with aftermarket temp gauges but and they also noted that the 76° thermostat kept the outlet coolant temp quite substantially lower. I put one in based on their experience.

My opinion is that the cooling system on these engines is barely sufficient for alpine climbing and heavy towing for long periods in hot weather. Nevertheless, they have been successfully raced in North Africa (with oversized radiators ?), so go figure.

That being said, it the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned, and that includes Volvo 240s.

Just have to know your limits.
_________________
December 1999 KZJ95 GS (1KZ-TE) manual
Underbody armour
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club Forum Index -> 90 Series / Prado / Colorado Technical Forum All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


All contents © Hobson's Choice IT Solutions Ltd 1997 on
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group