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Engine stalling

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wildsmith
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Joined: 20 Oct 2006
Posts: 1580
Location: Stourbridge, West Mids, UK

PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 22:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it the SV that's the male end? If so couldn't you just solder a short wire to each terminal, slip a bit of heat shrink over each one, terminate them at an ordinary water proof connector, chop the connector off the wiring loom and give it the other half of the after market plug?
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 22:59    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Nor
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Joined: 16 Feb 2006
Posts: 330
Location: Oslo, Norway

PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 23:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds good.  Just wanted to add that either way, it is important to secure the cable such that the pins in the SV are not broken because of a vibrating cable hanging on to it.  That's where a proper plug is better than flat connectors or soldering.
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nathanrobo
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Joined: 20 Nov 2008
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Location: Northants - UK

PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 23:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had thought about this, but wasn't sure about how robust it would be?  LC has done about 300 miles without cutting out.  So maybe I've bought myself enough time to find a friendly dealer that will order the mod kit?

Any idea why the ip has so much insulating all around?
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E320 CDI Avantegarde, C320 CDI Avantgarde (AMG)Landcruiser 100 4.2 diesel series '01 Anniversary number 118, Fiat 500 classic 1970, Fiat 500 classic 1971, Fiat 1.2 Pop 2012.
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Nor
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Location: Oslo, Norway

PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 23:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Imagined it was for sound.  I drove my 2000/2004 hybrid for about one month without the padding. Didn't notice much difference.  Very easy to remove tho'.
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freddie
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 23:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

the replacement spill valve has the wiring with a plug on the end that fits in to the wiring harness
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 23:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah... that fits!  My IP has been rebuilt and has a warranty (yellow paint blobs over various components), so best not to tamper, but if I were to order the replacement sv, I only need to use the plug.  Any idea what the part number is?

Toyodiy.com had to remove all of the parts diags  Sad
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freddie
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Joined: 11 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2009 20:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

re sv
toyota will not sell  a sv they say you have to buy a new pump   the sv is  a nippon denso part and i purchsaed my one from this company
http://www.merlindiesel.com/
who imported it in from europe and i fitted it my self
this problem was a recall on early uk 100 series
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2009 21:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Freddie

Can you recall what you paid?  Sounds promising Smile
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freddie
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Joined: 11 Mar 2007
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Location: essex

PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 1:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

nathanrobo wrote:
Hi Freddie

Can you recall what you paid? Sounds promising Smile


well it was back in 2004 and some 100,000 miles ago i paid extra for express delivery and i think   no more than 250
they will need your fuel pump number so you will have to take the cover off

i was told by a deisel specialist up your way that it would not be possible to just change the parts that the pump would have to come off etc

on talking to my local disel  specialist he said its a nonese its only a solinoid just change it so i cut down a open ended spanner i think it was a old one of my dads for changing hydrulic hoses
undone the old sv making sure everything is spotless around the hole popped the new one in pulled the fuse on the ecu reset and its been ok ever since
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rmurphy5
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Joined: 25 Aug 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 1:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amazing to be resurrecting this thread but my trusty old cruiser with 310k miles is playing up. It was going fine until yesterday and hesitated then died while moving. I pulled over started it up and continued. It did the same an hour or so later again. Today it is really bad and in the end wouldn't start but turns over great. I took the top pump cover off and the Spill Control doesn't seem to have a removable connector. It is brown plastic with some epoxy round the base. Does anyone have a checklist for the sensors and valves with resistances etc? Diesel filter is 5k miles old and it seems electrical shut off rather than diesel starvation. Any tips greatly appreciated!
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rmurphy5
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2020 0:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to follow up it was the green wire to the Spill Valve that has broken in the loom somewhere. Connected it direct to the EDU plug and off I go again!/
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