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New Owner Maintenance Advice

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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 11:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beekeeper, good to know it is going well apart from normal things we all find aren't to our satisfaction and standards.
As you are realising, a job done here and there soon brings it up to spec.
Good idea to take off and clean nipples, as previous maintenance doesn't appear to be high from what you say, and a good grease gun pays dividends. Always a bit of a fine line with u/j's, as too much can be as bad as not enough, if the grease starts coming out anywhere, thats a sign to stop.

Rear axle breathers seizing can be a problem on these 120's, several of us on here have had it. I bought an one part quite cheaply some time ago, as Milners were selling them off. Mine wouldn't lift or turn, and a pair of grips sorted that temporarily, I think Karl had the same problem. I was wary like you, about the thing snapping off in the axle casing, and as it is in a bit of a depression in the casing, after fine wire brushing, regular dosings of plus gas seem to stay around it. I've still not done mine, but others who have, recommend an aerosol of freeze spray applied to contract the metal hence cracking the rust seal created. Got that too, but haven't got around to changing yet.
You need a deep socket, I think 6 sided for more grip, not sure as I have so many, I was gonna use one of my hard impact type with a short breaker bar. The average socket with a lot of 'serrations' for nuts/bolts tend to round/slip off hard to undo stuff.

Sounds like the dipstick who owned it before you had a better engineering understanding than manufacturers slinging all the sealing washers away ! Unless of course as Karl said in an earlier post, they are till stuck to the component you are removing from.
I've had cases in the past, where there has been 2 washers on, probably because someone thought there wasn't one on there.
Always good to change out every so often anyway, I dont always do it everytime - depends on if it was leaking or what it looks like.

Power steering fluid is never a quick change, same as 'good for life' atf in these lc's.

Your wiper linkage may just be the bushes worn, until you get the plastic scuttle off, you won't know.
You can get new bushes and or linkages with the bushes already in I think, hopefully thats the extent of it, a gen. item complete with spindles etc, without the motor is around £300 !!

Rear number plate lights, they sound familiar, rusty metal, screws snapped off, and difficult to get at.
My lc has the spare on the door and number plate to the left.  IIRC, I used a strip of metal and self tappers I had in the garage, and reworked both the lights in there.
It involved more work to remove the whole number plate mounting to work on, so I did it in situ.

Tyres. As you experience heavy weather/snow where you are, with all those oddities/wear, throw them out and change the lot for all same age/brand/pattern of your choice.
I've had Bridgestone Duellers on another lc, and were only adequate, and some of the lesser known brands, are cheap versions by major manufacturers. I have Cooper discoverer at3 m+s on mine, and find them good in all weathers and fields while caravanning etc.
These, as far as I know, are obsolete now, so replacements will be Coopers again, st or even stt. We shall see !
Karl I believe went for the next ones up from mine, st ? and he is more than happy. Maybe he will comment.
If you ask a dozen people on here about tyres, you will get a dozen different answers, none of them wrong, so comes down to actual conditions they are used and personal choice.
Kwik Fit, are you serious ?
I've had dealings with them, and wouldn't trust them with a trades bike in a lay by.
Go to a proper tyre depot mate, who know what they are talking about and what they are doing, and above all, supply you with what you ask for with no surprise extra charges.

Wheels. If you look on the likes of e bay, they are often on there, admittedly some will be with a tyre you dont want, which is a negative, and most will want a refurb. I had the saame idea as you originally and picked one up quite cheaply.
On average though they are £50 upwards, and as all mine needed refurb anyway, I had the whole lot blasted and primed for around £50.

With a working CD player, you are quids in mate !  Never even tried mine, although have a case of cd's transferred over from the 78.
Hmmm....... excess weight there !

Keep at it mate !! 😊
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 11:06    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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andy
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Joined: 16 Dec 2003
Posts: 2258
Location: Polegate, Sussex, England.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 11:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few months ago I fitted https://www.davanti-tyres.com/terratoura-a-t they look just like better makes and have so far been good, and at a reasonable price, worth a look to see if they do your size.
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It's Not a Bl**dy Jeep it's a Landcruiser
150 series Invincible X
100 Series VX Limited
Mercedes Sprinter 311 Luton
1993 VX80 4.2td SOLD
1996 Hilux Surf SSR-G Intercooler Sold
1994 Hilux Surf SSR-V Sold
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
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Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 11:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good find Andy, and nice tread and sipes on too.  They do come in standard 120 sizes as well 265 65 17.
Are they a hard compound with lots of road noise ?
I couldn't find a price, but only had a quick look.
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Tractionman
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Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 11:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Karl, just noticed where Davanti tyres are, you could drop in there for a cup of tea. 😁
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
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Location: North West

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 11:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing

I can't have their tyres mate, pretty sure they're Everton sponsors!
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andy
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Joined: 16 Dec 2003
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Location: Polegate, Sussex, England.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 13:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the tyres direct from the company, and including postage they worked out around £440, that is for 265/60/18, early days for wear yet, but noise is minimal compared with the standard Bridgestone's, speak to Colin Denton Customer Service and Process Manager 08444 93 9000 Ext 440 OAK GROUP HOLDINGS LIMITED.
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It's Not a Bl**dy Jeep it's a Landcruiser
150 series Invincible X
100 Series VX Limited
Mercedes Sprinter 311 Luton
1993 VX80 4.2td SOLD
1996 Hilux Surf SSR-G Intercooler Sold
1994 Hilux Surf SSR-V Sold
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
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Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 13:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy, thanks for that info mate.

Karl, you're only saying that cos you live at the posh end. 😀
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karl2000
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 13:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing
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Tractionman
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 20:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

👍
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Beekeeper
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Joined: 16 Feb 2022
Posts: 38
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2022 23:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to everyone who helped out to get me this far, I seem to have reached a point where I'm fixing more things than I'm finding new faults, and the LC is running better than it did. Perhaps the summer weather and daily use suit it.  Most of the jobs so far, and there's loads still to do, have been easier than I would have dared hope. Timing belt is ok if you ignore some of the You Tube videos which put things back together in an impossible order.  Rear axle breather gave up without a fight after two weeks of Plus Gas.  Wiper linkage was completely shot, spindle worn through the side of the housing, but possible to remove despite the arms being seized on.  Milner's replacement comes from Taiwan rather than the Oppressive Republic of China, and is very good as well as inexpensive.  Power steering oil was the blackest I've ever seen.  Covered nearly 2000 miles too.

Now I bought the LC for three tasks: Taking the dogs out to save the newer cars being ruined - it's great for this and isn't getting ruined itself.  Towing trailers particularly carrying old cars - only partially tested but should be fine, and getting through the snow a few times a year - still to be tested.  I wasn't looking for comfort or equipment.  Unfortunately, or fortunately depending on your point of view, it is very comfortable to drive indeed and not badly equipped even by modern standards.  So my thoughts have wandered to the possibility of driving from Scotland to Barcelona, a round trip if you include a few miles over there of nearly 3000 miles.

Is this complete madness in an eighteen year old motor, even with a new clutch and tyres?  Is there any possibility that the aircon can be restored at a sensible cost (LC3 so front only)(for my passengers), and any tips from those that have done similar?  Fuel cost is around £1000 so it's only an option if our flight gets cancelled for the third year in a row.
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Tractionman
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Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 10:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've made some great progress there mate, well done !

Yep, normal fare on a vehicle of any sort that's been neglected, you will initially be finding more to fix as jobs are tackled, it does reach a point where it is minimal though.
Wear and tear and servicing still need regular attention, but when you keep on top of it, it doesn't become quite a chore.
Anything other than a Land cruiser quickly gives up with neglect.

Glad you like the equipment and comforts, all a bonus on a workhorse and d/d. Very nippy too, but watch that left foot ! 😉
Your a/C could be several things, if you book it into somewhere that does this work, (sometimes your local garage) once hooked up to their machine, they will be able to diagnose what's wrong with it, failed parts, low, empty, leaking gas.

Long distance treks in Landcruisers are completely within their scope, even on older 120's, to the area you're talking about
Older series have all been doing it across the globe, in many inhospitable cplaces than Barcelona, preparation is all important though on any trip, as you just made it back home a few hundred miles with that iffy clutch found after purchase.
The most important thing is injectors and scv on these engines. Is there any indication yours have been replaced, prior to purchase ?
Techstream is a useful diagnostic to check for any faults/codes.
As it is running well and oil pick up is clean, that's a good sign.
Watch this space for more advice from others, good luck !
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Beekeeper
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Joined: 16 Feb 2022
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Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2022 21:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm hoping that good design and build quality will compensate for the age of the vehicle.  No sign of work on the injectors or pump but it looks to have a new EGR cooler.  The anti freeze looks the correct type and measures only slightly weak.  Soon to be changed anyway.  Charging voltage looks a bit high at 14.2 volts, is this usual?  Any other known faults that I haven't read about?  It's going on a short holiday at the weekend, about 120 miles each way but having done the trip in it before I don't foresee any problem.

Will have another search for a Techstream download.  How quickly do the injectors and SCV's fail once they start?  There's no smoke or vibration cold or hot at the moment.
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karl2000
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2022 21:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

14.2 volts sounds fine to me!

I think SCV's tend to go without much warning, hence people proactively change them!
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Tractionman
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2022 22:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brakes. Apart from the obvious like worn pads all round (shoes in the case of handbrake) a common fault on these are bottom piston sticking in calipers. An easy one to check, without too much work. While you're there you can check on any play in steering/suspension.
As Karl says, charging rate seems about right, mine is similar, just make sure all battery terminals are clean and tight to make things easy on the batteries for starting, and again as per Karl with scv, although I have heard of the odd one playing up or sending engine into limp mode/down on power. As we know of the problems with these, especially if still on the original short one, upgrade it to the newer long one before it gives up or causes problems.
You are keeping up with the fluids/filters etc which is good. I can't remember, when you did the oil change, did you check the oil pick up strainer with your phone camera if it was clean ? An easy early warning of injector problems apart from anything else.
With your maintenancerepairs carried out you should be fine.
Someone on tv said recently, rust is the only thing that will kill a Land cruiser !!
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Beekeeper
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2022 22:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the LC took us on the short holiday without a hitch so back to working round the known and potential issues.  The jangly noise from underneath that disappears with light application of the brakes wasn't the OSF wheel bearing as I had thought, I was sure there was play on the wheel but fortunately checked first with the wheel off the ground and it seems fine.  There is a hole knocked in the dust cover so presumably the bearing has been replaced before, cover is easy to source and under a tenner.  May yet need the bearing on the other side.

While there it wasn't hard to see that the caliper has two seized inboard pistons and four shredded piston dust seals.  Presumably mullered by whoever replaced the discs and pads not long before I bought it.  Why do some mechanics have such low standards and if being paid then lack of morals as well?  I've ordered a new caliper as being the most economic and certainly easiest way of fixing the issue as I can't see the pistons at a reasonable price. Likely the other side will need similar attention but if it's not seized then the seals alone might be enough.  It will take a few weeks to work round the remaining corners and I expect the handbrake mechanism to need a bit of work.  it might have passed the MOT but the cables feel part seized and I've still to find the source of the jangly noise.  It's not there when the brakes are cold so might be the pads rattling around, needless to say there's no sign of any shims but no brake squeal either.  UJ's also come to mind but seemed ok and there are no clonks.  CV joints after that right noise but not steering related.

Wil research the SCV issue a bit more and identify what's fitted at the moment.  Milers have a suspiciously low priced SCV kit (£60) although out of stock, compared to the regular red and green ones at £138.  I have to ask does anyone know what the difference is and is it worth keeping the cheaper one as a spare?  If the You Tube videos are right then I need Techstream to make the system learn the settings for the new ones and I don't have a copy yet.

I removed and opened up the OSF fog lamp which had condensation inside.  The alloy casing corrodes around the bulb holder so although this one came apart in the vise and cleaned up well enough to go back together when really dry inside I suspect they aren't normally serviceable once exposed to salt in the UK.  Pattern lamps look cheap but not sure if they have the bulb holder which gets distorted by the corroded alloy.  I've coated the back with high temperature Dinitrol since I had some handy, might be worth cleaning these up periodically if the corrosion hasn't got a hold. Just one of the joys of an older vehicle!
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