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LWB Lift question

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Andyk80
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
Posts: 54
Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2022 22:17    Post subject: LWB Lift question Reply with quote

Hi all,

I'm well stuck into a pretty major strip down and rebuild of the bottom half of my 96 LWB, and am gearing up to fit 40mm suspension lift (the spring mount sections are almost the last part of the back axle I haven't completely ground down and rust treated/painted, so they'll be coming up soon).

I've managed to track down a nice adjustable panhard rod from Oz that's just gone on, and the top trailing arms are done, but I've just started the process of treating/painting the mounts for the first of the lower trailing arms, and realised I've bought standard ones.

I've been through all the forum posts I could find talking about lift, and the only one I've seen referencing longer or adjustable trailing arms for the 90 series, talks about a Nissan Terrano arm bolting in.

What's everyone else done in terms of the arms when lifting their vehicles?  I've found adjustables in Oz for the 80 and 100 series, but nothing for the 90 so far.

One other thing.  All the articles seem to suggest 2" is doable without major mods.  I'm going to get a longer brake flexi hose kit made anyway, but my handbrake cable has almost no play in it already, and is very taught.  Has anyone had issues with their cables when lifting?

Thanks!
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MikeJak
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Joined: 28 Mar 2022
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 9:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Andy, I’m going to fit an old man emu +40 suspension literally tomorrow to my LWB 90.
From all fitting instructions and videos I researched before ordering the kit there was no mention of longer links needed, the rear axle has plenty of movement to accommodate the lift and so does the front ifs. The issue over 2” lift seems to be mostly at the front (found quite a few people lifting the back 3”) as the cv semi axles start to work out of parameter angles and eventually grind out the joints.
+40 mm kit should go in without issue…but hopefully I can confirm tomorrow!

What rust treatment are you using? I need to start treating my rear axle and still trying to work out the best option… at the moment I am leaning towards the route of a phosphoric acid solution to convert present rust and then a nice hard wearing coat over…
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Andyk80
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
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Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 9:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks MikeJak, I was getting that impression but good to be certain before I put it back together.

Rust-wise I've been using some McKlords rust converter I had left knocking about from another project.  I had a suggestion of Granville on another post, so I'll give that a try soon (I'm running low now) but McKlords has been working quite well so far.

I've been blasting the metal back with grinder/drill wheels, doing two applications of converter 1-2 days apart, then I'm using eTech chassis paint for the chassis and axle. 2 coats on most sections, more on the bits that had the most rust before.

It seems to be working nicely so far.  I've been working bit by bit, and have eaten slightly into stuff I've already done when moving forward, and the etech paint doesn't flake at all.  Even with a knotted angle grinder wire wheel, if you hit the new paint it just makes wire width cuts into the paint, and there's no rust left underneath it.
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Andyk80
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Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 9:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should say actually, if you try McKlords, it's nasty stuff.  I've got a full face mask thankfully as when I've used goggles only, I've ended up with small burns on my face from where it's dripped.

It's definitely one to treat with care.
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Vagabond
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Joined: 03 Dec 2004
Posts: 455
Location: Watford, HERTS

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 10:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 40mm suspension lift won't require any other mods on a 90 and will be fine.

You only really need to worry about CV angles and extended ARB drop links etc. if you're planning on exceeding 50mm.
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'97 VZJ95 - Colorado 3.4V6 with LPG, 40mm Ironman SL, full SS exhaust, 265/75R16 Hankook Dynapro RF10s on 80 alloys and 195k+
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Andyk80
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 10:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok brilliant, thanks Vagabond
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MikeJak
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 10:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds good, I can let you know tomorrow how my install goes.
From reading it shouldn’t need longer brake lines or hand brake line either…
I’m doing it at a mechanic friend workshop so he has all the presses and we plan to compress the rear spring in place so we shouldn’t need to push the rear axle articulation (and undo brake lines or any of the rods hopefully..)
Thanks for sharing the rust fight process.. will be my next (ongoing) job to tackle..I know it won’t be a fun one…
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Andyk80
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 10:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a messy job, but well worth it.

If you're taking the springs off, that's the best time to do the spring mounts for sure.  They'd be impossible to do a thorough job on with the springs in place.
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MikeJak
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 11:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know…unfortunately timing won’t work to scrub treat and paint the spring stays tomorrow (need to keep time on the lift sensible due to mates rates…) planning to give them as much of a scrub I can if we remove the rear springs first so I can give them a quick coat of rust converter/stopper and it dries while we do the front struts…not ideal but will try and make it work…not a huge area so it may just work…

Did you do the bushes on your rear links?
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Andyk80
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Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 11:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah the arms and panhard all came with new bushes.  I've changed the ARB links already, and will do the bushes on the ARB as well when I get to that point.

When you've got the springs off, you could try a coat of converter, warm it to dry it, then a coat of etech maybe.  I've found etech dries quite quickly at warmer temps, so you'd get some benefit from that.

Also, I've found after scrub down, a wipe over with white spirit gets much better results from the converter, and a second before the paint seems to work the best.
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MikeJak
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Location: Herts

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2022 12:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Super tips, thank you. Would be a shame to rush the job for the pair to just be scraped to bare metal as soon as the springs are seated in place… I’ll source some paints tonight..
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MikeJak
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2022 20:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Andy.
As promised a little update. New suspension went in today. Glad it was in a workshop.
Tears were really easy. No issues with brake lines or anything. We unbolted the shocks from the axle and the anti roll bar. Supported the axle and flexed it enough to remove both springs. Nothing pulling. We cut off the tops of the old shocks (just faster) and bolted the top of the shocks. Flexed the axle and seated the new springs. We then compressed the springs first onde side and then the other to do up the axle end of the shocks. The rear took about one hr.
The front was much harder work. I had some new strut tops from milner and they are not directly compatible with the ome struts. We had to make some small spacers to fit on the stem of the strut and we had to bore out the bushing sleeve of the Milner strut top. Fitting the struts was hard but worked using a big lever and spring compressors to be able to align the bottom bolt. I think the milner strut tops are a bit too thick. Once in all fine but really hard to fit.

Lifted slightly more then nominal as the old shocks and springs were the original ones..21years old!
Front went from 75 arch to bottom of the rim to 80 and rear went from 76 to 81.
The ride quality is much improved and I managed to treat the spring seats before fitting the springs on the rear axle.

Really glad we did it on a workshop lift. Definitely not a quick driveway job..
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Andyk80
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Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2022 11:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice to hear that, sounds like a successful install!  I'm entirely driveway, so I'm not massively looking forward to the fronts from what I've read.

I'm installing the Roughtrax Pedders stuff, so will see if I get any issues when it comes to the fronts.  I'm probably going to do the wishbones, drop links, ball joints and struts/tops all at once, so I expect it'll be a long while before that's done.

Awesome to hear it makes such a difference though.  Sounds like your truck is coming on nicely!
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MikeJak
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2022 13:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree the rear is easily done on a driveway, i rekon even alone with a couple of bottle jacks to help angling the axle. The front would have gotten me totally stuck!

We had a look at the bushes and they are still in good condition so will leave mine for another year or so. But in case it comes handy to you I found a few videos showing the upper and lower bushes being removed with a bottlejack. It’s a neat solution compared to the blowtorch and chisel…
https://youtu.be/jdnv5ziYXsY
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Andyk80
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Location: Birmingham

PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2022 13:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent, thanks!  I'm going to see if I can locate arms with new bushes pre-installed, but this will come in handy if I can't.  Roughtrax sadly have them out of stock, so it looks like fleabay will be visited!
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