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Undersealing our Land Cruisers


 
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Fabio_LandyOwner
Newbie


Joined: 12 Mar 2023
Posts: 2
Location: Beckenham

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2023 22:56    Post subject: Undersealing our Land Cruisers Reply with quote

Hello everyone!

Thanks for accepting my profile!

I am a new proud owner of a LC Amazon VX, 4.2 Diesel 2002 and I am loving it, more each day!

I am starting to do a few repairs needed in the car. I just started to take a look at some surface rust I have underneath it.

I was wondering from you, experienced owners, if you have any advice:
- I was quoted £700 to get rid of the rust and to do a complete undersealing of the truck with Waxoyl.

- I have started to do it DIT (wire brushing and getting rid of the dirt).  

What would you recommend:

Is it worth doing it professionally and paying the money? Peace of mind? If so, can you recommend anyone near SE London that can clean and underseal professionally?

OR

This is something you guys do it often and it is quite straight forward to do it?

-I have been researching and found products like LanoGuard (that apparently gets rid of rust and protects it), Krown

-I borrowed a couple of ramps from a friend to help the cleaning process and I will (depending on your answers) buy some products to do it.


I would much appreciate any directions you can all give me.

We should organise a get together one day with all!


Thanks and a great weekend for you all!

Fabio
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2023 22:56    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 318
Location: North West

PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2023 11:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're better off doing it yourself if you can - that way you know what has been done and to what standard.

It's very easy for these professional places to do a cover-up job and you don't know what it's like underneath whatever coating they use.

I did my 120, it took a while but at least I know the state of it.  There's lots of threads on this but basically get it cleaned off properly, remove whatever surface rust you can (wire brush, drill, angle grinder whatever), use a rust converter to treat whatever is left, then protect it with a coating of your choosing.

Don't forget to clean and treat the inside of the frame and other cavities - remember a lot of LCs rust from the inside out.

Once it's all looking good, you can use something like lanoguard to protect it...
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Fabio_LandyOwner
Newbie


Joined: 12 Mar 2023
Posts: 2
Location: Beckenham

PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2023 12:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Karl, It is great to receive some encouragement!

I agree with your thoughts, will do it myself, nothing better than the owners own view of what is in there.

Did you use lanoguard? Are there any pros and cons?

Have a great weekend!




karl2000 wrote:
You're better off doing it yourself if you can - that way you know what has been done and to what standard.

It's very easy for these professional places to do a cover-up job and you don't know what it's like underneath whatever coating they use.

I did my 120, it took a while but at least I know the state of it.  There's lots of threads on this but basically get it cleaned off properly, remove whatever surface rust you can (wire brush, drill, angle grinder whatever), use a rust converter to treat whatever is left, then protect it with a coating of your choosing.

Don't forget to clean and treat the inside of the frame and other cavities - remember a lot of LCs rust from the inside out.

Once it's all looking good, you can use something like lanoguard to protect it...
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karl2000
****


Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 318
Location: North West

PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2023 9:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Fabio, yep once I sorted it all out I now use lanoguard to protect it.  Only downside is that you have to spray it on every 12 months with a bit of a top-up in the middle.

But it's very easy to apply (I used a compressor but you definitely don't need one) and it seems to do a good job!

I recommend you get it as good as you can underneath before applying it, but even if you just put lano on it with nothing else, it would probably stop it getting substantially worse.

Good luck!
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eatapeach
Newbie


Joined: 28 Jan 2017
Posts: 8
Location: Abersoch

PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2023 16:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fabio_LandyOwner wrote:
Thanks Karl, It is great to receive some encouragement!

I agree with your thoughts, will do it myself, nothing better than the owners own view of what is in there.

Did you use lanoguard? Are there any pros and cons?

Have a great weekend!




karl2000 wrote:
You're better off doing it yourself if you can - that way you know what has been done and to what standard.

It's very easy for these professional places to do a cover-up job and you don't know what it's like underneath whatever coating they use.

I did my 120, it took a while but at least I know the state of it.  There's lots of threads on this but basically get it cleaned off properly, remove whatever surface rust you can (wire brush, drill, angle grinder whatever), use a rust converter to treat whatever is left, then protect it with a coating of your choosing.

Don't forget to clean and treat the inside of the frame and other cavities - remember a lot of LCs rust from the inside out.

Once it's all looking good, you can use something like lanoguard to protect it...


Easy enough to do.  Agree with Karl - DIY then at least you know what the baseline is.

I got off what I could with a brush and wire wheel.  Then used Bilt Hamber rust convertor (hydrate 80) then used Dynax UB - like Lanoguard but a bit cheaper.

Some people use a 3 stage process - first with Deox C then another convertor then wax but that is a bit OTT - an alternative is citric acid off Amazon and wallpaper paste
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