The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[Wandering Willy]

As the weather is still pretty good, it's worth spending a couple of hours checking the brakes are working properly.

This means:-

- taking off each wheel
- removing the pads
- cleaning off the dust and dirt
- putting Copaslip (or similar) on the slides and contact points on the pads
- checking that the pistons move freely.

It also means having a look round each wheel arch for split rubber on CV joints, steering racks, brake hoses, etc.

Toyota calipers have a habit of getting one or more pistons stuck. This check ensures you get the brake working while the weather is good rather than having to sort out a seized brake when it is raining, snowing, blowing a gale and you are sitting on a dirt track halfway to nowhere!

If you have never touched the brakes on your car, you might want to get advice from a friend who has. It's basically easy but there can be a few things to avoid. Like getting the pads back in the same way they came out. The outside pad stays on the outside and the inside one, inside. Don't swap them round.

Willy
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100 Series 2002 GX diesel automatic

[Google]

[Crispin]

Willy - two questions if you please

[Ecky Thump]

Cracking suggestion Willy

Just refurbed my front callipers because of one seized piston which gave me all sorts of problems.
Lucky for me the weather was excellent.

Crispin

From my own experience, you are correct, the pistons take time to push in when fitting new pads (keep an eye on the fluid level whilst doing this. you don't want it spilling on your paintwork)

A seized piston will either not move at all or be even slower. To remove my seized one, I used the old pads to keep two pistons in place, a clamp for the third and pumped the brake pedal to force out the stuck one. The hydraulic pressure of the system should overcome the seizure.

New pistons from Toyota are about £20 each but I managed to save mine as the pitting when clean was minimal and above the seal level.

Not sure about the copper slip query but I have used it for years on the back of pads and on slides. You only need a thin layer.
The grease you put in the rubber boots to protect the piston is another type but I can't remember what
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Les
TLOCUKSB Member No.80
1998 VX Ltd Auto 4.2TD 24 valve beast!! OME 50mm lift & Safari Snorkel
1997 auto petrol 80 (for Er'in'doors)

[Wandering Willy]

I use the G clamp trick as well. If the piston moves with a jerk rather than smoothly then there is a problem. You can't push the pistons back by hand though so some force (a little only) is necessary. Make sure you apply pressure keeping the piston square on the caliper - not cocked over as it will jam.

When you push one piston in, it is a good sign if the facing piston moves out. This means it is able to react to the hydraulic pressure easily. So be suspicious if it doesn't move.

I put a thread here a few months ago about freeing up stuck pistons using WD40 and red brake grease. If you follow that, you should be able to save the existing parts unless they are really stuck/corroded. Also puting red brake grease on working pistons (i.e. not stuck) keeps them in good shape particularly if you go wading/off-roading or like using a pressure hose on the chassis.

Copaslip is not a big problem externally on brake assemblies but I wouldn't put it on the hydraulic seals or on the little rubber collars on the slide pins on the rear brakes (80s and 100 series cars) as the rubber seems to soften and swell. I haven't had any problems with it on the outer weather seal around the pistons though (the one that extends as the piston comes forwards). The main use is where the pad sits in the caliper. You don't want the two parts corroding together and jamming. A little grease here protects them and allows the small amount of movement when you apply the brakes. Some people like to put Copaslip where the pads sit on the piston ends as well to stop squeal if this is a problem. I don't recommend this but sometimes it helps if the brakes squeal as you apply them.

Willy
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100 Series 2002 GX diesel automatic

[Wandering Willy]

Just to add an update on the brake job. I did mine this morning and it took me 3 hours. Not a record or anything - too old to try!

However, it was good in that there were no major problems (so fairly easy) but one of the rear caliper pistons was beginning to stick. Pushing the piston fully home and then pumping the brake pedal to extend it freed it off nicely. They have all been done with red brake grease last year so I know they are not dry. The old (original?) grease was rusty brown and there wasn't much of it.

I also used the job as an opportunity to swap the wheels round to even out the wear. I usually do this once a year. The car doesn't do a lot of miles so once a year seems to be enough.

I found a nail in one of the tyres which was a bit worrying but it had gone sideways rather than through the tread. As the sidewall wasn't damaged, I think it is OK to use.

Willy
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100 Series 2002 GX diesel automatic

[garystockton]

Thanks for the reminder, Willy - I'll do mine (including tyre rotation) after Lincomb, when I've all the mud out  
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