The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[Adam]

Hi all,

Time for me to do my service to my 54 plate 100 series Amazon 4.2TD.  Does anyone have official figures from Toyota on volumes of fluids and specific types for this vehicle?

I want to do engine oil, gearbox oil, transferbox oil, front and rear diffs and anything else I can think of, including the filters etc, so I need to know exact amounts and exact specs.  I will probably have sold the vehicle by the time the next transmission change comes up, so will be using the best stuff I can get my hands on, so dont worry about price.  Is there anything else I have missed, other than the AHC fluid and coolant??

Also, is there anything in particular about the auto transmission I should be aware of?  Come to think of it, is there anything at all I need to be aware of??

I was hoping to use a fully synthetic engine oil in a good low viscocity (5W30 type) as the winter will keep it a little thicker anyway due to the cold, but I dont want to adversely affect the engine and cause excess noise etc, as can happen when you use to thin an oil.

Any advice welcome here for the LC newbee.

Best wishes to all

Adam

[Huw]

Not sure about quantity but I use a synthetic oil in the engine that meets mb228.5 and ACEA E4 or their emmissionised versions. Currently use Morris Ring Free Ultra 10w/40 but have also used Fuchs Titan Cargo1040. These oils would probably be good for up to 100,000 miles but I drain every 10,000    A 25 litre can lasts two oil changes with a bit spare.
Auto box gets any available ATF Dexron.
Transfer box gets universal tractor oil.
Diffs get EP90 or EP 85w140 depending on what is in the shed at the time.

Your five speed auto, assuming that it is an auto, is 'sealed for life'. Best changed with synthetic ATF at about 80,000 miles though. Only a fraction of the oil is actually drained so if you are really fussy you will get it power flushed. I wouldn't bother.

AHC fluid has to be Toyota brand as should the coolant, Toyota red.
Don't forget the brake fluid. Good old DOT4 there.

Then a couple of cans of reassuringly expensive Stella Artuois in the most important reservoir.
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1998 100 series diesel 1HD-FTE with about 145,000 miles and counting. Active suspension.
Pioneer touchscreen sat-nav and entertainment system fitted.

[leon]

dextron III  or 2 min not just dextron  

stick to 10/40 when there talkign about cold with oil there talking -40 not Uk winters  some poeple on this forum have tapping or knocking when they drop to thiner oil's witch they didnt have on 10/40

I did a AHC flush right up in this forum some palce (2 tins of AHC fliud from toyota ONLY ! )

AT flush .....well your looking at droping it out the sump (about 4L )refill it run it throught the gears (to clean out old at fliud from the vaules ) drop it out again 4L refill it ... to totaly empty it is alot of work and about 12-16L of fliud ?

filters is a easy one  

greese prop shaft's UV jionts etc under the car change your diff oil's refill the windscreen squerty bottle and you set  
_________________
Should I have these bit's left over ?
1998 V8 LC Amazon VX work in progress
2008 pug boy
2009 pug boy
2010 pug girl
         ^ dogs

[Huw]

[Wandering Willy]

Can I suggest you change the brake fluid? It may be the original stuff still and that's now about 5 years old. You may get the master cylinder rusting if you leave it. You will need a litre of new DOT 4 stuff, possibly a bit more.

Be careful with the transmission fluid. The WS fluid is rather special and putting anything else in may be a bad idea (IMHO). It should be OK for about 80,000 miles but if you are close to that mileage or have been working it hard (heavy trailer or lots of muddy or sandy off-roading) you might want to change it early.You will probably need about 6 litres from Toyota. You may be able to syphon a fair bit out of the filler plug of remove some by disconnecting one of the cooler pipes. You won't get all of the 12-15 litres out this way but enough to make a difference. Repeat from time to time to keep it clean (every 10,000 miles?).

A similar story applies to the power steering fluid. I think you can disconnect the return hose to the header tank (plug the hole in the tank). Get someone to move the steering left/right to pump fluid (best to jack the front up a bit both sides on the chassis to reduce the load on the steering gear and tyres) while you keep topping up till the stuff draining from the hose looks like new.

New antifreeze? Drain - flush - top up with new. Fit a new thermostat as the same time if you want to do a good job.

Willy
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100 Series 2002 GX diesel automatic

[Huw]

[leon]

I changed my  steering fliud as its like brake fliud ingress of water over time costs pennys to do so cant go wrong

wile  Dexron II and Dexron III is now the most common as you pionted out i beleave it gose up to dexron IV in the new LC's and as Adam seems to know little bout it i just thought i'd piont out its dexron III he wants (can see adam now "can i have some dexron fliud plz " ..."witch one 2,3 or 4 ? " " i dont know    ) It will have the fliud needed stamped on the AT box dipstick by the way Adam incase it is the newer IV fliud or sumit else

agree with Willy change the brake fliud i did a wright up on that to in here some place i beleave alow i used 4 litre's of DOT4 gave eatch corner a right good flush
I just used a premium fliud but now wish i had used "castrol responce " fliud as my pedal could be more ferm (mebe i need steel brake line's ? )
_________________
Should I have these bit's left over ?
1998 V8 LC Amazon VX work in progress
2008 pug boy
2009 pug boy
2010 pug girl
         ^ dogs

[Huw]

[leon]

ok so what if some noob toped it up with water ? or the wrong fliud was added at some piont ......only way to be happy is to swop it out
(forgive my IV instead of VI still look on the dip stick to be 100% )



as for what AT fliud you may enjoy this read Huw  thread on AT fliud

[Huw]

[hodgy0_2]