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MisterCruiser ***
Joined: 07 Oct 2013 Posts: 187 Location: Ireland
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Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 21:05 Post subject: Steering Rack Removal |
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Can the steering rack be removed from the 90 series without having to remove the anti roll bar and its bushings? My anti roll bar bolts and nuts are a little seized and am hoping I don't have to undo them. Also, on the passenger side, the saddle that holds on the U bushing of the rack has lower stud nut and an upper bolt holding the saddle on. I got the nut off, but the upper bolt is seized in the captive nut and access to the nut end is very awkward, my air gun wont undo the bolt.
Did anyone have to cut the upper saddle bolt off and if so how did you go about it. Would appreciate any tips regards that bolt. Theres a pic of the bolt Im referring to in the following thread,
http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7753&highlight=steering+rack
Also, wheres the best place to disconnect the rack from the steering column? Do I need to make reference marks at this point so things go back together again in a certain way?
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Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 21:05 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 22:51 Post subject: Re: Steering Rack Removal |
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MisterCruiser wrote: |
. . . the upper bolt is seized in the captive nut and access to the nut end is very awkward, my air gun wont undo the bolt.
Did anyone have to cut the upper saddle bolt off and if so how did you go about it. Would appreciate any tips regards that bolt. |
I wouldn't think about cutting the bolt as that will just give you a bigger problem - what do you replace it with as you will have a seized part-bolt in the thread.
I would suggest soaking it repeatedly in release oil and warm the assembly up with a hot air gun (I wouldn't use a naked flame just there ). It might take a day or two for the release oil to work but its worth being patient. Slow torque with a power bar and a six-point impact socket should do it eventually.
I haven't removed a steering rack so I'm not sure what needs to be done. I would have thought that its safe enough to just remove the steering arms and gaiters without worrying about re-alignment but someone who has done the job can confirm that .
Good luck with it .
Bob. |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 22:55 Post subject: Re: Steering Rack Removal |
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I meant to say . .
Before disconnecting the steering column from the rack, anchor the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position. If it gets turned too far you will destroy the spiral cable arrangement that powers the driver's airbag and horn.
They are expensive to replace (from one who knows ).
Bob. |
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MisterCruiser ***
Joined: 07 Oct 2013 Posts: 187 Location: Ireland
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Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 23:30 Post subject: |
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I got the bolt out, plenty of back and forth with some Wd40 got it, had good access once i loosened off the power steering pipes, etc...
Anyway, I've everything slackened off and the rack is ready to be dropped out apart from disconnecting it at the steering column. Wheres the best place to separate it from the column? Can I avoid separating it up at the splines by disconnecting it at the bolts and studs positions in the pics below?
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 10:42 Post subject: |
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[quote="MisterCruiser"]I got the bolt out, plenty of back and forth with some Wd40 got it, had good access once i loosened off the power steering pipes, etc...
Anyway, I've everything slackened off and the rack is ready to be dropped out apart from disconnecting it at the steering column. Wheres the best place to separate it from the column? Can I avoid separating it up at the splines by disconnecting it at the bolts and studs positions in the pics below?
Good news about the bolt .
You can separate the column from the rack by undoing the four bolts. The rubber sandwich is a flexible coupling - check it for wear, splits and so on and replace if it looks at all dodgy.
Keep the pics coming .
Bob. |
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MisterCruiser ***
Joined: 07 Oct 2013 Posts: 187 Location: Ireland
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 22:22 Post subject: |
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I got the rack out the other evening anyway, disconnected it at the rusty bolts in the 1st picture of my previous post. There's actually only 2 bolts with nuts to undo there, the other 2 studs are just locating studs which ensure if the 2 bolts round you don't lose your steering. I undone them by putting long extensions and a down from the top of the engine bay and holding a 12mm spanner on the bottom of the bolt underneath the cruiser so 2 people made it a bit easier. Undoing it here emant I didnt need to go near the splines or anything. To keep the steering fairly central I just left the wheels pointing straight ahead and then locked the steering wheel with the keys out so hopefully that'll be ok when I put the rack back in. Planning on getting a 4 wheel alignment done afterwards anyway.
Here's a couple pics of the rack itself and of the rack mounting point on the frame with the rack removed, might be of good reference for someone in future.
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:01 Post subject: |
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Good job .
So what happens now
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Bob. |
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MisterCruiser ***
Joined: 07 Oct 2013 Posts: 187 Location: Ireland
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Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 22:41 Post subject: |
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I got a helpfull knowledgeable person to look at it for me, There's a little play in the rack due to a worn tooth, he got it adjusted out of it via the adjustment screw and didn't have to go too tight with it, so hopefully should be all right now. I changed the bushings whilst having the rack out as well but they wern't the problem.
Have to put it all back into the cruiser now |
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Aeroelastic **
Joined: 25 Dec 2017 Posts: 57 Location: Cumbria
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 8:10 Post subject: |
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Hi there, sorry to bring up the old post but this is what I will be doing soon. Great job on removing the rack.
I am replacing my tie rods and ball joints as my front driver wheel has play when rocking at 3 9 o’clock position while jacked up. Thought the problem was the inner tie rod but turn out to be the steering rack. The play is at the shaft section where the inner tie rod (driver side) is connected to.
I have to remove all the bolts that hold the steering rack as I am replacing the lower control arm bush at the passenger side, getting the camber bolts out was a big challenge, let alone pressing the bush out of the arm! So my entire steering rack is currently supported on jacks.
I am thinking of taking off the whole rack and see if the play can be adjusted. Do you know how your friend adjusted yours?
And how do you deal with the fluid? How many hoses do you need to remove to take the rack off? I can see 2 hoses on the passenger side. How do you bleed the rack after you reinstalled it?
Thanks in advance... |
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diggerdave ****
Joined: 03 Oct 2014 Posts: 448 Location: Bubwith
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 12:53 Post subject: |
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This might help with the adjustment. It can be done on the car, no need to remove. A lot of people are unaware the rack can be adjusted in this way. I did mine successfully a few years ago.
This is the definitive guide to the rack adjuster. If it's pre-1999(?) it might need replacing if simply adjusting it doesn't cure it or if the rack 'clunks' (I can't remember the details, but its all there). _________________ 1997 KZJ90 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 217k hard miles |
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MisterCruiser ***
Joined: 07 Oct 2013 Posts: 187 Location: Ireland
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Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 23:39 Post subject: |
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Aeroelastic wrote: |
Hi there, sorry to bring up the old post but this is what I will be doing soon. Great job on removing the rack.
I am replacing my tie rods and ball joints as my front driver wheel has play when rocking at 3 9 o’clock position while jacked up. Thought the problem was the inner tie rod but turn out to be the steering rack. The play is at the shaft section where the inner tie rod (driver side) is connected to.
I have to remove all the bolts that hold the steering rack as I am replacing the lower control arm bush at the passenger side, getting the camber bolts out was a big challenge, let alone pressing the bush out of the arm! So my entire steering rack is currently supported on jacks.
I am thinking of taking off the whole rack and see if the play can be adjusted. Do you know how your friend adjusted yours?
And how do you deal with the fluid? How many hoses do you need to remove to take the rack off? I can see 2 hoses on the passenger side. How do you bleed the rack after you reinstalled it?
Thanks in advance... |
Did you get your rack sorted? I only saw your post now, I see DiggerDave linked you to my old thread on how to adjust the rack.
Regards bleeding the rack afterwards just fill up the resivor and turn the steering wheel from side to side a few times but just stop just short of it reaching full lock. Don't let it hit the full lock ends and it will bleed easily, then jujst top up the resivor if needed. |
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Aeroelastic **
Joined: 25 Dec 2017 Posts: 57 Location: Cumbria
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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 21:51 Post subject: |
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Hi I managed to adjust the big bolt and the steering is much better now. Thanks for all the responses and help here..
Am now fighting with the anti roll bar shear bolts... |
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Aeroelastic **
Joined: 25 Dec 2017 Posts: 57 Location: Cumbria
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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 12:27 Post subject: |
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diggerdave wrote: |
This might help with the adjustment. It can be done on the car, no need to remove. A lot of people are unaware the rack can be adjusted in this way. I did mine successfully a few years ago.
This is the definitive guide to the rack adjuster. If it's pre-1999(?) it might need replacing if simply adjusting it doesn't cure it or if the rack 'clunks' (I can't remember the details, but its all there). |
Hi all, in the second link above, the rack guide 45504-35031 should fit a 3.0td 1997 rack right? Rang the dealer and they don’t have the original guide sold separately...
Thanks. |
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diggerdave ****
Joined: 03 Oct 2014 Posts: 448 Location: Bubwith
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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 14:23 Post subject: |
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£24 via Amayama - see here
Amayama are usually very cheap, but you have to wait a few more days for postage. IME though you also have to wait while your local Mr T gets it in too and I've always suspected that they just get it from the same place as Amayama _________________ 1997 KZJ90 3.0d, 2" suspension lift, 235/85/16 Cooper STT Pros. 217k hard miles |
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