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knicko *
Joined: 28 Dec 2012 Posts: 33 Location: Redruth, Cornwall
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Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 22:09 Post subject: |
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http://www.spam/forums/showthread.php/53962-UJ-question-(hopefully-very-simple)
This link on the "other site" seems to confirm the conflict of information re compatibility of different UJs. _________________ Nick - Turning Japanese, I really think so!
2003 Land Cruiser Amazon VX 100 series. 5 speed auto. 4.2 TD. 122000 miles. |
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Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 22:09 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 0:25 Post subject: |
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knicko wrote: |
The UJ on the forward end of the rear prop is visually different to all the others - and it doesn't seem to be available via Roughtrax or Milners, as they state their UJs are not for the 'double' type joints, which I assume is what I am describing at the forward end of the rear prop? |
The 'Double UJ' is known as a "Hookes Joint" after the 16th century Engineer/Mathematician who invented it. It produces a true 'Constant velocity' unlike the single Universal Joint at the other end of the rear propshaft. If you have ever driven a Series Land Rover in four wheel drive you will know what this feels like when you turn - the steering wheel lurches back and forth as they have single UJs in the steering swivels instead of 'CV' joints .
The Europeans call a prop shaft a 'Carden Shaft' and the UJs are 'Carden Joints' - presumably after a European Engineer. All very confusing.
I haven't had to replace the Hookes Joint bearings on my '95'. They are protected from the elements by the plastic under-tray and last a long time.
I'll be interested to hear how you get on with replacing yours.
Best of luck.
Bob. |
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DaveWall ******
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 Posts: 967 Location: Gloucestershire
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 6:37 Post subject: |
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Sorry - I meant I did all but the Double Cardan Joint - I would be VERY surprised if the UJ's in your Double Cardan needed doing, the shear nature of the two close UJ's removes vibration and more than halves the vibration/wear etc.... (Plus they are up out the *beep*)
I did strip them and check them at the time - but remember wishing I hadn't!
I think from memory they had a different Toyota Part number, BUT it may just have been that the grease nipple was in a different location or something... |
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DaveWall ******
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 Posts: 967 Location: Gloucestershire
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 6:40 Post subject: |
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P.s. I agree with Bob - strictly speaking - having a Universal Joint (single one) at either end of a shaft, makes it a Cardan Shaft - but over here we just know the joints as UJ's we refer to the close mated double UJ end as the "Double Cardan" |
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knicko *
Joined: 28 Dec 2012 Posts: 33 Location: Redruth, Cornwall
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 10:07 Post subject: |
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Thanks for these updates guys - very encouraging that the double cardan joint rarely fails. Obviously I wasn't checking it properly.
I will just do the rearmost UJ and see how that works out first. _________________ Nick - Turning Japanese, I really think so!
2003 Land Cruiser Amazon VX 100 series. 5 speed auto. 4.2 TD. 122000 miles. |
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DaveWall ******
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 Posts: 967 Location: Gloucestershire
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 13:13 Post subject: |
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Don't forget BEFORE you strip it apart (before you even take it off the vehicle really) make sure you mark the orientation of the yokes.
I center punch each part in a line.... Make a real good mark as you'll probably clean everything up while fitting new part so careful not to clean your marks off....
Tip from me... Genuine prop has all the grease nipples facing the same way. |
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mallinguard *
Joined: 18 Dec 2012 Posts: 15 Location: shropshire
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 16:34 Post subject: |
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Dave, how important is it that you do this?
i have just put my 95 back together again after several years in bits, using some parts from breakers, and ive found a deep, rumbling vibration when you put the power down, thinking its a UJ, but would of noticed at assembly if this was the case.
if it is indeed down to putting yolks together which are not suited/aligned, how do you solve it?
cheers |
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DaveWall ******
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 Posts: 967 Location: Gloucestershire
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 17:18 Post subject: |
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I would say very important - especially if you have a lift!
Have a look at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmV4qwLfOMY
For a good explanation of why!
As for checking, best option is to find an identical one not messed with and copy the alignment! I can't remember off the top of my head how mine were phased - Bob might have a better answer...???
Bob? |
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DaveWall ******
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 Posts: 967 Location: Gloucestershire
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 17:21 Post subject: |
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P.s. the bit about "phasing" is demonstrated at the end of the video! |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 0:03 Post subject: |
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DaveWall wrote: |
As for checking, best option is to find an identical one not messed with and copy the alignment! I can't remember off the top of my head how mine were phased - Bob might have a better answer...??? |
That video shows the effect of single UJs very well but as we have the 'double UJ' (and therefore a constant velocity) at the driven end it and the propshaft should always turn at a constant speed.
There will be a variation in speed at the rear diff if it's single UJ should be out of line with the propshaft.
I can't remember how my prop yokes are phased either, but looking at the vid the input and output yokes appear to be exactly in line.
I'll crawl under the '95' tomorrow and look .
Remember that the slip joint should also be marked to keep everything in phase and to maintain the balance of the shaft (there are sometimes pieces of steel plate welded to the propshaft to balance it).
If you have assembled everything without marking the bits first, I would set the yokes in line and try it. If there is bad vibration I would separate the slip joint, turn one end through 180 degrees and try again.
Nothing is ever simple .
Bob. |
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DaveWall ******
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 Posts: 967 Location: Gloucestershire
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Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 6:56 Post subject: |
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Right so the double Cardan 'Should' eliminate the need to phase the shaft (rear shaft - the front is pretty straight anyhow) so the only real reason to line it all back up is to keep it balanced...
When I re-built mine, I did have them balanced by Bristol Propshafts, they have a machine that looks like a very long lathe and can re-weld lost balance weights onto them etc... |
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DaveWall ******
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 Posts: 967 Location: Gloucestershire
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Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 5:40 Post subject: |
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Out of interest Bob did you ever check the phasing of your shafts? Will have a look at mine and see if they are the same... |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 22:13 Post subject: |
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Dave.
I centre-punched my coupling flanges at both ends and also marked the two halves of the slip joint before taking the propshaft off.
That guaranteed that everything went back in the same position as it came off (one has to be careful when replacing the UJ obviously or the flange could end-up in a different orientation ).
I've not noticed any problems since replacing the UJs.
Bob. |
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liongeorge *
Joined: 01 Apr 2015 Posts: 48 Location: Wilts
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Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 17:42 Post subject: |
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Sorry to highjack the thread a bit but I have just give my LC a full service and in doing so greased the UJ's. I just used my standard tractor grade EP2 grease but have since found out that you are meant to grease them with a special grease.
Do you guys think my standard grease will do any harm?
ATB George |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 23:01 Post subject: |
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I don't think it will do any harm. I use Castrol 'LM' grease in mine (and in everything else) and that works fine.
Any grease will be better than none .
Bob. |
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