The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[diggerdave]

Next on my list really ought to be a new actuator (just so I can show off to the Landrover drivers on the rocky stuff lol!).

Obviously my old one is kaput (aren't they all?).  My question is, is it even worth considering a second hand one?  The scrap dealer will guarantee it's working and - correct me if I'm wrong - I ought to be able to test it simply by plugging it into the connector before even considering tackling the terrifying task of removing the old one.

Having got a working second hand one could I prevent it deteriorating by treating any rust and painting the rear of it as is suggested elsewhere on this forum?  Presumably if it's working it will carry on working if i keep the rust at bay?  Am I being hopelessly naive

New ones are £450 from Milners, whereas second hand can be had for £200.

[Google]

[BobMurphy]

These things dissolve in road salt so anything you can do to protect them will be worthwhile. My '100' came from Yorkshire and the underside is a disaster thanks to the salt.

I would be very suspicious of a second hand unit and would want to inspect it very carefully. I have seen the casings split and then found it full of road grit and sand.

It can be tested by plugging it into the harness before its fitted so give it a good test. You may need to change the detector switch as well as they corrode away too (good luck with getting that out, I think it needs a long 27mm socket + heat, oil, power bar, swear words . . .  from failing memory  ).

The old one can be smashed-up but will leave the 'nose' with the gear wheel seized in the front of the diff. I use a 19mm tube cutter to cut around it without marking the diff casting. Once you reach the rubber sealing ring it should pull out intact. Don't batter it or force it as the gear wheel can fall off the end into the diff   .

There are lots of threads on this site, read-up about it and depress yourself  .

Bob.

[diggerdave]

Cheers Bob,

Yes I've seen the various posts describing the getting-out of the old actuator, including your hole saw trick.  It's not so much depressing as scary!

I guess if I'm going to go to all that trouble I should use a new part but, blimey, it's a cost.  At least my labour is free.  If I go down the second-hand route I will test thoroughly and visually inspect as you suggest.

[diggerdave]

A quick but important question: if I buy second-hand is it possible to bench strip the actuator to check the condition of the internals before fitting?

[BobMurphy]

[diggerdave]

Thanks Bob, food for thought!

[Andysparks]

I just replaced mine and got it brand new delivered for £380 from KS International. It's the genuine part and couldn't fault their service. I replaced the switch that indicated the diff lock is on too, Toyota wanted nearly £80 quid for one but it's exactly the same switch that's used for the reverse light on cruisers and other toyota models. I checked this by comparing OEM part numbers on a toyota database. You can get one for under £20 at Milners.
Hope this helps
Andy

[poze]

Yesterday I've disassembled mine and only problem that I see are stator magnets which lost adhesive and were out of their original position. Does anyone know of some tutorial or something that might help me assemble them in right order / positions?