The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

[diggerdave]

Is there some sort of award we can nominate BobMurphy for?  For services to DIY owners everywhere?

[Google]

[DaveWall]

I'll add to the fund....!

[BobMurphy]

[BobMurphy]

Back to the Transfer Box . . .

After a day spent scrubbing parts in a washing-up bowl full of kerosene, things were looking a bit better.








Even the chain had lost its rusty look (but was still stiff):






I gave the cleaned-up parts a bath in my Ultrasonic Cleaner. This takes 2.5 litres of cleaning fluid plus 25 litres of water. It has a 500W heater that takes all day to heat the mix to 80 deg C so - 7 x 3-litre kettles of boiling water later I was ready to start.










25 litres of fluid cost £71.00, so each fill costs £7.10  .







After 20 mins in the Ultrasonic Cleaner, the Centre Diff didn't look too bad.












The Planet Gear bearings are slack and there is quite a lot of play when the Carrier is assembled into the Annulus. I'm hoping that when both inside and out are supported on their tracks they will be good enough to use. I put EP90 into the needle roller bearings and they were much smoother so they may be OK. If not a new Planet Carrier is around £300  .  

There is still rust in the outer drum (the Annulus) where the Planet Gears run - I'll spend some time cleaning that out.






All the bearings I have removed so far have been toast - slack, rusty and making a horrible graunchy rumbling sound.










Now to continue with the rest of it. first remove the three Detector Switches (27mm ring spanner).






Then the Selector Blocks have to be removed from the Selector Shafts so that the shafts can be withdrawn from inside the box.

A Parallel Punch is used to knock out the Rawl Pins.









The shafts were corroded and had to be cleaned with emery before they would pass through the oil seals and bearings at the front of the box.







Then the front bearing cover has to come off.







The large front bearing is retained by a snap ring, as is the central Input Shaft.






Next, the Oil Pump has to come out before the central gear/shaft cluster can be removed. It is held in by 3 x 6mm bolts.









Now the main shaft should come out.






And what a mess it is . . .




















Time for some serious cleaning to begin.

The shafts were stripped and scrubbed in kerosene but the case went straight into a hot bath. We are fortunate in having an out-building that's a bit rough and ready. It has a large sink that is perfect for this kind of dirty job. Don't try this in the kitchen kids  .







This was the second wash in hot water and Industrial Cleaner, you can guess what the first wash looked like  .







After a good clean, the parts are starting to look presentable.












The large main bearing that the assembly turns on is shot - rusty, slack and rumbling.











So what's missing from this picture ????







Answer: The sliding pinion on the end that provides High Ratio drive (the inner, female gear ring connects to the Input Shaft) and Low Ratio drive (the outer male gear ring connects to the Planet Carrier) should have a Bronze Synchromesh Cone, with three steel Ramps and a locking ring, fitted into the end. There is no sign of it anywhere. So, someone has been in here before and has either lost the Synchro or has given-up trying to work out how to install it and has chucked it - most peculiar.

Its there to ease the transition from Low to High Ratio where the Input Shaft is turning 2.61 times the speed of the Planet Carrier.


The High/Low Planet Carrier isn't too bad. There is wear in the bearings but when oiled with EP90 the Planet Gears turn quite well without too much slop. Hopefully it will be OK to put back.

Both Planet Carriers are revolving around their central axis, meaning that oil & dirt will be spun-off the gear wheels instead of getting inside and chewing-up the bearings. Maybe this is why they both look "sort-of-OK-ish".







After cleaning the main case I removed the High/Low Gear outer ring (the Annulus). It is held in place by a snap ring. Notice that its outer surface has a coarse 'stepped' pattern - like a shortened 'Acme' thread form. There is a good reason for this.







Serious Off-Roaders Take Note . . . .


Mr T has built in a safety device to prevent the Transfer Box from exploding under extreme abuse by driver trying to climb out of quarries and such-like  .


In normal use, the Annulus is fixed. In high Ratio, the drive from the gearbox (Sun Gear) drives the output shaft directly (via the Centre Differential). The High/Low Planet Gears turn with the Sun Gear and their outer edge meshes with the Annulus allowing the Planet Carrier to turn. In this state there is no load on the Planet Gears or Planet Carrier and the assembly just rotates.

In Low Ratio, the drive to the Output Shaft is taken from the High/Low Planet Carrier. The drive provides a 2.61 reduction to the Output Shaft.


Under extreme load, The power from the Sun Gear it shared with the Annulus as the Planet Carrier is turned. When the forces get too great the Annulus is allowed to spin in its housing - relieving the forces but also stopping the car's wheels from turning.

Look at the above picture - see that plug, spring and plunger ?? That is all that prevents the Annulus from turning so when it gives way that Plunger will skip over the ribs on the outer surface of the Annulus. The car will stop, the engine will keep going but there will be a loud "DAGA-DAGA-DAGA-DAGA-DAGA" as the Annulus rotates.

It'll scare the *beep* out of you but its designed to do that (stop, that is)  .


This is where I am at now. The case is quite clean but needs at least one more bath. The shafts, gears and so on are clean but need a final scrub to ensure all oilways are clear. The shafts are marked where bearings have been running on them and will need a good polish on a wire wheel.

Then its a case of making a list of parts, getting the Part Numbers and getting a quote from Toyota.












I hope Michael is sitting down when I phone him    .


Bob.

[DaveWall]

I'm not convinced the load safety feature will work so well, when full of dirt!

You do make it look easy!

Dave

[Pentland_Cruiser]

Oh wow!  I hadn't realised you were writing it up as you went but just saw all this and well... wow!  My hat off to you Bob - the level of effort you've put in here - this is astonishing!  
What a disgusting mess inside there (promise it wasn't all me !   )  This explains quite a few things - poor fuel economy if the chain was super stiff, difficult to select L / H range and a myriad other things too. Thank you so much for all your work!

[BobMurphy]

Well, I live and learn.

Going through the parts list I discover that a Transfer Box that's attached to an Auto Gearbox doesn't have synchromesh  .

On my Auto '100', the Autobox has to be in Neutral before Low Ratio can be engaged / dis-engaged. Is that the same on a '90' ??

If so, that would explain why Synchro isn't considered necessary.

Strange, I re-built a TB from an Auto before and don't recall missing the synchro - I must check my photos.

Now to construct a lengthy e-mail to my Toyota Contact in Northampton   .

I'll be back  .

Bob.

[Pentland_Cruiser]

It's always been the case that I've needed to put it in neutral before changing range, yes (don't know if that's the same for all of them though).  Glad there's nothing missing (hopefully) - phew!

[MisterCruiser]

This is a great thread, makes for interesting reading and viewing with all them good photos. Fair play to you Bob for tackling that. Can the likes of them parts still be got from Toyota easily enough, when will we start to see a problem regards availability of such parts considering these trucks are starting to get on a bit now. Will the likes of that chain still be able to be got? Are there many aftermarket suppliers of these parts around if needed.

Looking forward to the rest of this thread with the rebuild

[BobMurphy]

[BobMurphy]

Well, I went through the parts lists and placed my order with Toyota - £500+ for bearings, springs, a speedometer drive repair kit and a Transfer Box Gasket set.

While waiting for the parts to arrive I tackled the Propshaft UJs. The new UJs came from 'Roughtrax'.


I started with the rear joint on the rear propshaft. It wasn't too bad but was partially seized and made a crunching sound when moved.





I had cleaned both propshafts up, to find that the bearing caps and so on were painted black, which I guess is original. They may be difficult to move.

Before starting, mark the stirrup and flange so that they go back in the same orientation and note which way the grease nipple faces  .







I heated them around the bearing caps to make life a little easier.







First remove the four circlips from the inner end of the bearing caps, then drift the caps inwards - to push the opposite one out.







Repeat for the flange and you end-up with a heap of old parts like this:







This sounds simple, but these were tight and needed heat, penetrating oil, a 2.5 lb hammer and a socket to use as a drift. It all came apart eventually.

The housings where the bearing caps fit were cleaned-out with a wire brush on a drill.










The new UJ is laid out, note that the grease nipple has to be screwed in - its much easier to do this before the UJ is fitted.










Make sure the grease nipple ends-up facing out between the bearing caps.







While we're at it, clean the rust/dirt off the exposed Slip Joint shaft.







Remove the Slip Joint grease nipple (this required heat and care  ).







Cover the grease nipple hole with a rag and squeeze the Slip Joint shut - there will be a mess   .







The new UJ is fitted with the grease nipple facing away from the flange. The caps are removed (carefully), the central spider is wiggled into position and the caps slid back in and over the spider legs. The four new circlips hold everything together.







I repeated the exercise with the front propshaft, and didn't take photos. As it happened I had a real problem as the caps were seized solid and wouldn't budge very far. I ended-up cutting the central spider out with an Angle Grinder before punching out the caps - the first time I have resorted to such drastic action.

In the end, both were done - firm and smooth  .







Next day most of the parts arrived (there was a mistake and two items had been missed - I'm still waiting for the re-order to arrive  ). I had enough to start putting some components together - starting with the Centre Differential which had only needed a good clean and a thorough oiling.



















Then I tackled the two-speed Planet Gear, which needed a bit of work. fortunately the Planet Carrier was passable and will go back in after a clean and oiling - its £1,000 if you need a new one  .











The first task is to carefully press the new needle roller bearing into the central shaft. A floor-standing press is a god-send, it doesn't need much force (the pressure gauge didn't move) but a firm straight push is far better than using a hammer and a drift.







Using a combination of bearing presses and sockets, it was pushed into place without damage.











Then the large outer bearing is pushed on over the front spigot. first I pushed it flush and then used the old bearing to seat it properly.















A Snap Ring locks it into place.







The Input Shaft has a new Thrust Washer and Radial Thrust Race (a flat needle-roller bearing).











It slots into the Planet gear assembly and is locked into place with a Snap Ring.











Now the double gear that provides 'Low Ratio' drive, the inner (Female) gear and the outer (male) gear that drives the Oil Pump is fitted into the back of the Planet Gear/Input Shaft assembly and locked with a Snap Ring.











Now the outer ring gear (The Annulus) that the High/Low Planetry gear runs in can be installed in the case.











Then the High/low assembly can be fitted into the case. A large Snap Ring around the front bearing holds it all together.







Now, clean-out the housing for the oil seals that the two Selector Shafts run in, and install the seals.



















With the High/Low assembly installed, the Oil Pump can be fitted. There is a rubber oil seal in the Inlet Port that should be replaced.











The drive gear turns the Gear Pump and the delivery is through the Drive Gear shaft and out through the front of the casing (where it will be diverted later).















Michael had said that the Speedometer wasn't working . . . No wonder, there were no teeth left on the nylon drive gear. The gear, its shaft, lock ring and 'O' ring come as a kit.







I can't fit the Main Shaft yet as I'm waiting for a needle-roller bearing that goes at the front. I can assemble most of it though.











A pair of small Ball Bearings prevent this Thrust Washer and Speedometer Drive Worm Gear from turning on the Output Shaft. This will have to be properly assembled once the shaft has been installed in the casing.







The Transfer Lever Turret was cleaned-up and its new Detent Spring fitted.







Other parts were cleaned-up while I'm waiting for deliveries.











And that's where I am now. hopefully more parts will arrive tomorrow (Wed) and I'll be able to crack-on  .

This has been a labour of love, normally the internals are clean and it doesn't take me long to rebuild the box. This has been a challenge but the input shaft turns and rotates the High/Low assembly and its all Smooooooth  .


Bob.

[BobMurphy]

Well, the parcel arrived and I could continue with the build  .

The front of the Mainshaft runs in a split needle-roller bearing.







The bearing is dropped into the centre of the Input Shaft before the Mainshaft (and Selector Shafts) are installed.







I tested the new Front Output Shaft bearings in the cases, they are an easy sliding fit, but are tight on the Sprocket Shafts. I used a socket with the hydraulic press to fit the two bearings to the shaft:











The Front Shaft Companion Flange Sleeve is pitted and I tried to clean it up to prevent oil leaks where the oil seal runs on the sleeve. I wasn't very successful as my 60-year-old lathe isn't up to the accuracy required to re-face it without machining away too much material. I then considered putting a Sealed Bearing on the front to limit oil loss, but there is a large oil channel in the case that leads oil down between the bearing and the front oil seal. That wasn't going to work then. If it does leak I'll have to either fit a new flange and oil seal of find someone with a better lathe than mine who can re-face the oil seal's rubbing surface. Fortunately ( ) this can be done later with the box installed.

I then fitted the Front Output Shaft Oil Seal as its easier to get it properly seated (and straight) without the shaft being in the way.







The Swarf Magnet is dropped into its housing before the Oil Pump Pickup is bolted in.











The Pump Suction Tube just plugs into the pump body, sealed by the rubber 'O' ring that was replaced earlier.







Now the Front Output Shaft, with the drive chain and Drive Sprocket can be fitted. This was a bit of a squeeze as the chain is tight, despite being washed in Kerosene and sprayed with Penetrating Oil. I had to tap the links into place with a rubber mallet before the shaft and sprocket would line-up and fit. I expect the chain to loosen-up quickly once its running in clean oil.











Then the Output Shaft rear Thrust Washer is fitted, with its locking ball, and the Bearing is pressed on. The rear cover is then fitted (with RTV Gasket Sealant on the joint face), and the Rear Bearing Locking Snap Ring is fitted.

The Speedometer Drive (with locking ball) is slid onto the shaft and the rear cover bolted on - with RTV Sealant. The Speedometer Pickup is installed, ensuring that its nylon drive gear is properly engaged with the worm drive and the Anti-Vibration Mass Damper is bolted on.

The Selector Interlock Plunger and the two Détente Balls and Springs are installed in the rear of the case. I have shown this in other posts and didn't take pictures this time.







At the front, the hole where the oil from the Oil Pump emerges can be seen - lower/centre, right.







A matching hole in the front cover feeds the oil up to the Input Shaft bearing surface.







There are a pair of steel sealing rings on the Input Shaft with oil holes in between. The oil is fed down the hollow shafts where it sprays out through a number of galleries, lubricating the bearings and gears.







The Front Cover is now fitted (with RTV sealant) and the Selector Blocks are re-fitted to the shafts with Rawl Pins. All bolts are torqued to the values provided in the Max Ellery Manual.







Now the two Companion Flanges are fitted to the two splined output shafts - they have new oil seals fitted to their centres. The flanges are different, the rear one having a larger diameter. New nuts are torqued to 87 ft/lbs and the nut sleeves are "Staked" to the grooves in the Output Shafts.












And there we are, the three Detector Switches are re-fitted along with their mounting plates and The job's done   .















There is an oil seal in the rear of the gearbox that The Transfer box input shaft runs on. I thought it prudent to change it and ordered one some days ago - it hasn't arrived yet so I can't fit the box back into the car. That oil seal isn't supplied in the Transfer Box Overhaul Gasket & Oil Seal kit, yet the Transfer Box has to be removed from the gearbox to be worked on thoroughly - so why isn't the seal part of the Overhaul kit   .


Hopefully everything will be back together this week coming. Its taken longer than I had anticipated, but then it was a bit of a mess   .


More to come.

Bob.

[Pentland_Cruiser]

Astonishing work Bob!  Look how nice and shiny    Your attention to detail is second to none - this is all very much appreciated.  Would you like to rebuild the rest of the car too?!  

[BobMurphy]

Ha Ha !

If I only had the room to lift cars and work around them in comfort   .

I may have to lift the body off my '95' as the N/S inner sill has rotted, the replacement panel is over 6ft long and incorporates three of the body mounts  .

I'm not looking forward to that job.

While the body is off I may as well renovate the chassis  .

Actually, I have ordered a load of plastic trim clips and hopefully I'll be able to re-attach your N/S front wheel arch trim (must do mine, too).

I'm about to contact Toyota again as the tailgate opening handle on the Amazon broke while No.1 daughter was out in it with a group of friends (nothing to do with them, of course  ).

I'll chase-up the missing order.

Hopefully you will get your truck back this week.

Cheers.

Bob.

[Pentland_Cruiser]

Your Amazon will just about be a new car after all the tinkering you've done on it!  Yes, that pesky wheel arch trim's been an irritation. I almost had the epoxy resin on to it but the Bob way will be far better! Cheers