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Have to lock centre diff to move my car


 
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harrybell
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Joined: 27 Apr 2014
Posts: 31
Location: ne9 7jf

PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 1:18    Post subject: Have to lock centre diff to move my car Reply with quote

Hiya everyone.
As always I'm needing specialist help.
Today my 100 as I stopped at a roundabout then tried to pull away all I could hear was a grinding noise as if a gear wasn't meshing properly.
In panic and desperation I put it in low range and it worked.
Tonight before starting Nightshift I tried to put it in hi range but locked the central diff.
I haven't had a look yet but there are no signs of a snapped prop or driveshaft.
Anyone got any idea please. Thanks again everyone
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 1:18    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Trevski
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Location: Brackley, Northants

PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 11:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like the splines on the drive flange on one of the front wheels have worn and given up the ghost. Pull off the plastic wheel centre caps and and remove the metal dome cap that covers the drive flange snap ring (much easier to get off with the wheel removed).

Once these are off you will see the end of the driveshaft, refit wheels and have someone put the vehicle into gear. If the driveshaft end is spinning and making lots of horrible noises then it'll be the drive flange, if it was me I would replace both sides at the same time.
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 16:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will need to jack up each corner and try some experiments to see where you are losing drive, otherwise you are guessing.

It works with the centre diff locked, so we can possibly rule out Transfer Box problems (but not entirely). But which end is driving ??

100s are very tough and I'd be surprised if it was a diff failure, drive shaft - as mentioned - is a possibility but try to pin it down or we will be firing in suggestions and confusing the issue   Embarassed.

Bob.
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harrybell
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Joined: 27 Apr 2014
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Location: ne9 7jf

PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 8:11    Post subject: Need to lock centre diff to move. Reply with quote

Many thanks to the two people who have responded.
I have decided tomorrow I will remove the front propshaft and try to drive it with the centre diff locked.
This should immediately tell me which end of the car is faulty as you correctly said.
I "suspect" that it is the front .
That being the case I will follow your recommendations about the front shafts.
I have been a fitter turner for years. Trouble is now I have osteo arthritis in the knees, so anything like crawling around hurts Sad .
Does anyone on the forum know of a knowlageble 4x4 expert near NE9 7JF or gateshead/ Newcastle!
Thanks in advance ! What I would give for the lifts that garages have and the oxy acetelene!
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harrybell
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Location: ne9 7jf

PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 17:37    Post subject: It's the nearside drive shaft. Reply with quote

Thanks both of you for replies.
It is the nearside driveshaft.
The circlip on the end of the shaft had came off and instead of protruding out about five mm its was way inside to the point it was only on the splines by a couple of mm.
I reground a groove in the end of the shaft and it works perfect!
However I consider this a a bodge job and need some advice such as an exploded diagram of all the parts.
There was a washer and two very thin nuts. But the way the locking washer is, it appears to be doing nothing.
It is so difficult to guess how it all assembles and works.
Please help once again gentlemen .
I will of course look through the forum as I expect that is all needs disassembling even to do the cv boots.
Thanks Harry.
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2016 10:42    Post subject: Re: It's the nearside drive shaft. Reply with quote

Here you go, Harry  Laughing.









Cheers.

Bob.
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harrybell
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Joined: 27 Apr 2014
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Location: ne9 7jf

PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2016 16:14    Post subject: Thanks bob. Reply with quote

Could you tell me should I be able to move the shaft in and out
i.e. in and out of the front diff.
I cant once the circlip is in position but I can when it is off.
The locking ring for wheel bearing adjustment is missing a tab too. The inner lug.
Going beyond this it looks very complex and I will have to study it in more detail.
Thanks for your time and information.
Harry
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 22:16    Post subject: Re: Thanks bob. Reply with quote

Yes, you should be able to move the drive shaft in and out (a bit).

If you look at part No. 43403 (a sort of cluster of large ball bearings) you will see that the balls run in grooves in a sleeve - this allows the shaft to extend/retract as the front suspension moves. With the rubber boots and clips removed the shaft will drop out of that sleeve. Its a form of Constant Velocity Joint and does the same job as the slightly simpler 'Tripod Bearing' found on the 90-Series.

It sounds as though someone has been meddling in there and hasn't got it together properly  Mad . Fortunately the fix should be simple once you know what you've got and what you need.

You will be checking both sides, won't you  Wink .

Bob.
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harrybell
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Location: ne9 7jf

PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 22:56    Post subject: Thanks bob:) Reply with quote

Thanks Bob.
Yes after studying the drawings with a freind of mine, we had concluded that it would have to have travel of some sort as the angle would have to change as the suspension moved up and down.
We have been tampering with the wheel bearing adjustment in ignorance.
There is no lug on the tab washer for this.
So I'm thinking of ordering them from rough trax or Milner.
The bearings and discs were replaced about two years ago.
However as a result of me not tightening the wheel properly it broke a wheel stud.
This was adressed correctly at a local garage.
I also had it to a place called Spanner Monkeys in Washington Tyne and Wear to renew the inner cv boots.
Don't ever go there! They ripped the outer cv boot trying to replace the inner (Differential side) saying they could't separate the shaft as it would not last six weeks!
By my reckoning it should fall apart from the drawings you have kindly provided.
Total lies and they got £200 from me.
I am fifty three years old and my knees are knackered.
I only have jacks and axle stands to work with.
I don't know which moron has done this, but I have learnt from this ,if I want a job doing correctly with TLC then I have to do it myself.
Many thanks once again! I will be having another look this weekend!
I will also order the box spanner lol.
What a mess chisels make!
Smile
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2016 9:37    Post subject: Re: Thanks bob:) Reply with quote

Yes, doing it yourself is best as you tackle other jobs while the truck is apart - which Garages won't do.

Gradually you will get to know how everything works which is very reassuring when you're out on the road. Make sure you take plenty of pictures for reference - they are invaluable as old age erodes your memory (DAMHIK  Rolling Eyes ).

Fifty Three ! there's years of life in you yet . . . I'll be 69 on Monday and I'm still crawling under cars, riding motorcycles, fixing roofs and getting into mischief - 69 going on 19  Laughing.

All the best.

Bob.
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harrybell
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Joined: 27 Apr 2014
Posts: 31
Location: ne9 7jf

PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2016 11:24    Post subject: Gawd 69 ! Reply with quote

What can I say.
I feel 100 years old.
I struggle to get up off the floor unless there is somethin to hold on to.
I do indeed take photographs as you have sugested:).
I bought a haynes manual, but I think its Australian, so there are differences.
I'm also thinking the end of the drive shaft had no signs of a keyway being milled in , so it could be a drive shaft off something else.
I have also noiced that the clips come in various sizes.
This means that there has to be some sort of adjustment of the float too?

What can I say you have been so helpfull , with great humour mixed in !
Many thanks.
Harry
hbell@blueyonder.co.uk
Tried to figure a way of sending you a photo and failed! Crying or Very sad
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