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Prado 90 manual: clutch noise problem

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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 20:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

werminghausen wrote:
Hi Bob, thanks for your help.

The clutch pedal action feels normal to me.  However I think I will inspect the clutch release bearing you are mentioning... if there is any access to it. Is there access to the release lever and bearing?

Martin


Hmmm, not really - not without removing the gearbox.

The clutch release lever protrudes through the LH side of the box (when viewed from the driving position) and has a large rubber boot around it.

I have never tried looking inside through there but I guess if you have (access to) one of those fibre optic inspection scopes that Builders use when looking for pipes or cables in cavity walls you might be lucky.





I think it is unlikely to be the cause in all honesty, bit I'm running out of ideas  Rolling Eyes .

I think taking the box out is a last resort at the moment as everything appears to be working apart from the noise when engaging the clutch.

I'll put up a parts diagram for the clutch assembly later (just been called for tea  Laughing ).

Bob.
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 22:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

BobMurphy wrote:
I'll put up a parts diagram for the clutch assembly later.


Here it is. There is very little that can go wrong with the mechanism and if the clutch action is OK I wouldn't go removing the gearbox just yet.

If you look at the clutch release bearing you will see that it has a pair of 'flats' machined into it. These fit between the fingers of the release lever and the two are retained by a simple spring clip. The spring clip doesn't carry a load and if the clutch pressure plate is OK the release bearing can't drop out of alignment as there isn't room in the bell housing.

If the release bearing wasn't replaced with the clutch I suppose it could be dry, worn and noisy. Do you know if it was replaced ??







What bothers me is the fact that there was a 'bang' before and after the clutch was changed (assuming it was !). This points to something else in the transmission to my mind.

I'll keep thinking.

Bob.
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werminghausen
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob: That is what I thought. No access to the clutch bearing and anyhow there is not much that can really go wrong.
Thanks for the pics and diagram. This really helps me understand

Well, as you said, the banging was there before the clutch was changed. I just hope that the shop has done the job right and exchanged all parts that were worn. But there is no guarantee.
In this country many things don't go according common sense in a western sense. So at this point anything is possible even if the shop was the best place in town.
If the shop did a good job and the banging was there before and after in pretty much the same way then the cause might not be the clutch.
if it is not the prop shaft and differentials... then only place left is the gearbox....uhhhh..bad question. I fear I won't go that deep down.

Is there anything that could wear inside the gearbox that might cause the banging?
Do you think if I did testing in HL and LL positions there is a way  to narrow things down? I'll try if shifting in HL and LL makes any difference.
Thanks so much for your help
Martin
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

werminghausen wrote:
Is there anything that could wear inside the gearbox that might cause the banging?
Do you think if I did testing in HL and LL positions there is a way  to narrow things down? I'll try if shifting in HL and LL makes any difference.
Martin


Martin,

You have a conventional five-speed manual gearbox mounted on the engine with a two-speed Transfer box bolted behind it.

Going into 'HL' locks the centre differential in the Transfer Box and 'LL' switches the Transfer Box into Low Ratio (with the centre diff locked).

There are parts that can wear/break in the Transfer Box, but they would normally show up when the car is being driven normally. I can't think of anything that would 'bang' only when the clutch is engaged. From what you have said the car behaves normally once its moving on the road, apart from maybe a small amount of transmission shunt when going on and off the gas. That sounds normal to me.

The gearbox could have worn clutch splines on the input shaft, or worn bearings, but again, I think there would be noise when going on and off the gas - not just when the clutch was engaged.

Its just possible that driving in 'LL' will cause a lot more shunt in the transmission so give it a go and report back.

Its all very puzzling.

So lets go back to basics . .

With the car stationary:

Do you get a 'bang' when engaging first gear ??

Do you get a 'bang' when the clutch starts to bite on take-up ??

Do you get a 'bang' when the car starts to move ??

I'm guessing only one of these will apply, but which one ? It would help if you tried all of these in 'H' and 'LL' separately.


My '95' has about the same mileage as yours. I get a 'clonk' from the transmission when shifting 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th on the road, unless I'm careful to match the engine revs and road speed. I think that's normal given all the components in the transmission. It certainly isn't a 'bang' and I don't get noises associated with the clutch action.

On the road:

Do you get a 'bang' when shifting between the gears at normal road speed & revs ??

There is one other possibility, but its a long shot.

The forward end of the gearbox input shaft fits into a small bearing in the end of the crankshaft. Its known as a 'pilot bearing' or 'spigot bearing' and it aligns the gearbox to the motor and stiffens everything up.

If that bearing is very badly worn I suppose the gearbox input shaft could jump when the clutch is released/engaged and cause a noise.

I replaced mine at around 120,000 miles and the old one was fine. I would doubt that yours is worn even if you live in a sandy environment as its a sealed bearing.

Just another straw to grasp at  Laughing .

I'd like to see/hear the problem for myself. Could you post a video clip / soundtrack of the action/noise to give us all a better idea ??

Good luck.

Bob.
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werminghausen
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 18:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob,

With the car stationary:  (and gear in H, not in HL / LL)

Do you get a 'bang' when engaging first gear ??      NO! I don't think so.

Do you get a 'bang' when the clutch starts to bite on take-up ??  NO! No bang from start to first gear. It bangs when clutch bites shifting 1/2, 2/3, 3/4, less at 4/5 shift,
bang is harder if  speed difference of  engine rev  and output is higher ... bang is less when I coast a second with clutch pressed to match the engine revs and road speed (waiting for engine speed to go down, then shifting slowly and releasing clutch slowly...that is what bus drivers do when shifting gears in an ancient  manual bus.. I see this here in Oman).
Another detail on down shift:  There is  no bang when  when car is on speed and I shift down to slow down the car no matter how fast I release the clutch, I believe.
So the speed difference comes into play only one way.

Do you get a 'bang' when the car starts to move ?? again NO in first gear.  Maybe this is because the clutch is engaged slowly typically at start up.

"My '95' has about the same mileage as yours. I get a 'clonk' from the transmission when shifting 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th on the road, unless I'm careful to match the engine revs and road speed. I think that's normal given all the components in the transmission. It certainly isn't a 'bang' and I don't get noises associated with the clutch action. "
Why is there no clunk from 1/2 and 2/3?  What is your explanation of this clunk?

I'd love to send you a video/sound. Would be much easier than words. But I am not a video gig. Don't know how to do this properly.

I'll do test shifts in HL and LL gear.

Martin
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 20:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

werminghausen wrote:
Another detail on down shift:  There is  no bang when  when car is on speed and I shift down to slow down the car no matter how fast I release the clutch, I believe.
So the speed difference comes into play only one way.


Interesting . . So the 'bang' only happens on upward changes and only when the car is moving.

I wonder if the issue is with the synchromesh cones in the gearbox  Confused

I've had the synchromesh out of the Transfer Box, but not out of a gearbox. The one in the Transfer Box is fairly simple and is bi-directional, I'll have to do some research on the gearbox to see if this is a likely cause.

The 'H' & 'LL' tests are just to establish if there is slack in the transmission that causes a bang under drive and over-run conditions. I think its still worth doing.


werminghausen wrote:
Why is there no clunk from 1/2 and 2/3?  What is your explanation of this clunk?


The 'clunk' is just the slight amount of play in the gearbox, transfer box, propshafts & differentials being taken-up. I think its normal in a car that is used for heavy towing and has 129,000 miles on the clock.

As I am usually towing a horse trailer, starting off in first and the 1st to 2nd change are careful affairs with everything under load.

2nd to 3rd is also. usually, under load and I haven't noticed any clunks though I'm sure I could create some if I tried  Very Happy

By the time we get to 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th changes the car is rolling along and during the changes the engine revs drop, the momentum starts to over-run the motor and all the slack in the system shows up. When power is applied again the slack is taken up producing a small 'clonk', unless I am careful.

I don't think its anything to worry about.

I'll have a think about the gearbox.

Bob.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 1:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martin,

Wonderful things hot baths . . No wonder Archimedes had his 'Eureka' moment in one  Laughing .

There I was, up to my neck in hot water, thinking about gearboxes (well, what else  Shocked ) when it dawned on me that I once had a similar knock in a car almost 20 years ago.

I used to tow my daughters' horses with a Volvo 240 Estate. One day we went to a local show that entailed driving up a steep, rutted farm track. It was quite a haul for the Volvo and half way up I suddenly heard a bang, followed by a knocking.

Looking at the car / motor I couldn't see anything wrong but, when changing up or even causing it to pull hard there was a knock.

To cut a long story short, the nearside engine mounting had sheared - the rubber block had become un-bonded from one of the metal mounting plates. The result was that when under load, torque reaction caused the motor to tilt and the cam box was hitting the brake master cylinder.

On the over-run it simply compressed the broken bits together and everything was normal.

New engine mounts cured it.

Does this sound familiar   Question    Question    Question  

You are getting a 'bang' when changing up, but not when changing down.

The 'bang' can be heard/felt through the dashboard.

I think at very least your L/H engine mounting should be looked at. It may not be broken but I guess its hot where you are and that can affect the rubber.

There isn't much room between the clutch bell housing and the transmission tunnel in the bulkhead. I suspect there is enough movement in the motor for something to touch under load.

That would explain why changing the clutch didn't fix the problem and why there are no other symptoms pointing to transmission problems.

I'll await your response with great interest.

Hopefully this isn't just another 'wrong tree' to be barking up  Rolling Eyes .

Cheers.


Bob.
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werminghausen
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 14:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent idea Bob! under hot water.

I'll be very eager to find out about the engine mounts and maybe transmission mount?  I hope I'll find and get access to these parts.
Best, Martin
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 20:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

werminghausen wrote:
I'll be very eager to find out about the engine mounts and maybe transmission mount?  


Martin,

Not a wonderful diagram, but the Engine mountings (one each side) are Part Nos. 51401 and 51402 - here:





The transmission sits in a cradle that is rubber-mounted to one of the chassis cross-members. It bolts to the gearbox extension (the fill-in piece between the gearbox proper and the Transfer Box).

Shown here with the front prop shaft removed.





I don't think you will have to touch the transmission mounting to test the Engine mountings. If you can rock the motor side-to-side with your bare hands enough to make it hit something that will be proof enough.

Replacing engine mounts is a simple & cheap fix (relative to other tasks  Laughing ).

I won't pop any corks yet . . .  Wink


Bob.
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werminghausen
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 18:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Bob,

I tried to check the engine mounts. They seem to be okay from what I can see. I could not move the engine with rocking the thing with bare hands. I'll try rocking again when engine is cold. Engine was a bit hot when I tried.
to move it. Didn't pop corks...yet. Not sure what to do if it is not the mounts? Would you replace them anyway?
Martin
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 19:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

werminghausen wrote:
I tried to check the engine mounts. They seem to be okay from what I can see. I could not move the engine with rocking the thing with bare hands. I'll try rocking again when engine is cold. Engine was a bit hot when I tried to move it.
Didn't pop corks...yet. Not sure what to do if it is not the mounts? Would you replace them anyway?
Martin


Martin,

I haven't replaced my engine mounts and I don't think they are on the list of 'consumables' ! They shouldn't need doing unless the motor has had a hard life in extreme temperatures.

If the bang is only happening on upward changes and can be felt through the dashboard it rather points to someting hitting when the motor is under load. The fact that it doesn't happen on downward changes, when the torque reaction is in the opposite direction, also points to it being engine torque-related.

If it isn't the motor block hitting something then how about the exhaust ??

The confusing part is that I would expect there to be a 'bang' when accelerating up a hill under load without touching the clutch. Have you tried doing that ???

I'm running out of ideas now  Embarassed .

I'd like to hear it for myself and, if necessary, start taking it apart. However, that (fortunately  Wink ) isn't possible.

I suspect it will be something simple and blindingly obvious when we find it.

Laughing

Bob.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 13:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Bob

I am also running out of steam. Your observation is sharp. The bang is torque related and only at upshift.
When the shift is done there is never a bang....uphill...full torque...nothing.  Does this tell you that it is not the rotating engine causing the hit?
I am getting paranoid somehow because it is probably something very obvious before our eyes and we can't see it. You are absolutely right here too.
I was thinking today if there could be a fault in the clutch engagement hydraulics?
I got the Haynes manual yesterday.  Saw that there is a clutch slave cylinder. Could there be a fault in this part?  

Question: If you shift and release the clutch very sudden (fast)  in your Prado...so that it snaps...is there a bang?
Martin
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 0:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martin,

It doesn't sound as if there is a fault with the clutch slave cylinder. You say that the clutch action is normal and a cylinder problem wouldn't happen only on upshifts. Its a simple hydraulic system (with a tortuous pipe run  Rolling Eyes ).





I am not aware of a 'bang' if I release the clutch too sharply. A bit of a clunk from the transmission and a lurch but that is all.

Another possibility is worn bushes in the upper and lower rear control arms. If they are slack the axle can twist under load (and un-load) and the slack in the rod eyes can produce a knock. I don't think it would cause a rattle in the dashboard though.

Have you had a look at them while you were underneath ??





The upper ones can be seen here (with new orange bushes fitted).





While you are underneath, check the steel 'towers' that the upper bushes attach to. They have been known to rust and become detached from the axle. I doubt that this has happened where you are but check them just the same.

Here is a highlighted diagram, the Control Arms are parts 48710 and 48720, but also check the bushes and mountings in the Panhard Rod (lateral stabiliser) Part No. 48740.





I really don't think its those items, but I'm clutching at straws now  Rolling Eyes .

Bob.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 18:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Bob,

I'll check the bushings of the upper and lower CAs at rear axle.  However I think I would be able to identify a clunk from worn bushings in the rear.
The bangs are clearly located in the front so that not only I can hear the banging sound but  the entire dash is shaking.
The slave cylinder is a no go you are saying. Is there a way to adjust the speed of clutch release and travel of the clutch pedal?
Martin
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 12:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

Martin,

There is no adjustment on the clutch action, though it might be possible to adjust the 'throw' of the pedal. Its not power assisted as it is on the '80 Series'.

You could try bleeding the hydraulics in case you have air in the system. It should be smooth and easily controlled on release.

This is all very puzzling . . .

Has any other work been done on the car recently (before you acquired it) ?? I'm wondering if something is loose somewhere under the dash.

One would hope that with the clutch being replaced all gearbox mountings and clutch fittings would be good. As the 'bang' was there before and after the clutch change it rather points to it being caused by something else.

We'll just have to eliminate one thing at a time.

Are there any other Landcruiser owners nearby who could listen to it and help pin it down ?? Diagnosis by proxy is notoriously unreliable  Laughing    Laughing  


Bob.
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