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can towing a caravan cause mechanical damage?


 
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Ish
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Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Posts: 8
Location: London

PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 15:07    Post subject: can towing a caravan cause mechanical damage? Reply with quote

Hello folks,
I'm looking at buying an LC 100 4.7 V8 very soon. I've noticed and read on LC forums that quite a few are used for towing trailers/caravans. This concerns me a bit that it may cause damage to the engine, tranny etc. Is this a valid concern? If I view one with a tow pack, is there anything obvious I should look out for?

Thanks
Ish
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Wandering Willy
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Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 1016
Location: Norfolk

PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 12:06    Post subject: Fuel Consumption? Reply with quote

The general opinion is that the 100 is made for towing a heavy trailer so mechanically you couldn't do better.

However, be aware that the fuel consumption is going to be eye watering with the petrol version. Converting to LPG is an obvious option but that will cost about £2K. Also you want to get the biggest tank possible (100L+ is possible) but doesn't make it any cheaper.

The concensus is that the tyres make difference. 18 inch (or larger diameter) rims with low profile tyres and tyres with a stiff sidewall all make the car more stable for towing but may impact off-road ability (not sure, may not be important unless you want to cross the Sahara).

I suspect you will have to have an automatic. There are few manual gearbox cars around and the petrol version is even less likely to be manual than the diesel. If that worries you think about it before making your mind up on which model to choose. However, general opinion is that it doesn't matter and for road use the auto is very good.

Look for a car with a Toyota tow bar and electrics fitted. There should be a rating plate pop rivetted onto the socket mounting saying Toyota on it. It is very robust. Having checked, there seems to be a mounting for a ball hitch inside the bumper (under the plastic skin) but I doubt that it could cope with a heavy trailer or caravan. The proper bar is massive and has about 9 half inch bolts holding it onto the chassis rails.

I hope that helps. Good luck.

Willy
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Ish
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Joined: 25 Sep 2007
Posts: 8
Location: London

PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 13:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Willy,
your post is very much appreciated. I didn't make my original post clear, I don't want to use the towing facilities. My concern is that I've noticed quite a few for sale with tow packs on them and I'm worried they might have been (ab)used as a workhorse and reduced the lifespan of some of the mechanicals (engine/gearbox etc) or there may be imminent problems looming and it may not be immediately apparent by the good condition of the car.

Or are my fears unfounded since even if you were to tow a ship, it wouldn't make any difference ?

Thanks
Ish
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bushburywolf
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Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 242
Location: Wolverhampton West Midlands

PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 2:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

you will probably find that any landcruiser that has towed would be a 4.2 deisel engined vehicle ..they have the grunt to do a great job of towing..
although possibly a petrol fueled landcruiser would do as good a job it would prove a lot thistier ..therefore a L.P.G. conversion would have been done ..
realisticaly speaking ..i doubt very very much if it would harm a landcruiser ..they are bulletproof and over-engineered so they tell us .. (owners /dealers)
p.s.   i tow a 1500 kg loaded caravan ..that's why i purchaesd my landcruiser ..loads of grunt and good off road on a muddy rally field .. occasionally i pull off the rally field another car... usually front wheeled drive S.U.V.  and caravan together WITHOUT  using Low gears /Diff locks .. just normal ..  feels very satisfying to know you have the ability to help ..
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Wandering Willy
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Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 1016
Location: Norfolk

PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:49    Post subject: Wear & Tear Reply with quote

I know this won't help much unless you have a basic level of mechanical nouse, but I suspect many Landcruisers suffer more from indifferent servicing than towing. Looking at another thread about servicing charges, there is a consensus that Toyota dealers don't see a lot of Landcruisers to service and seem to make a pretty poor job of even the basic stuff like filling the screen wash bottle (plus they charge an arm and leg).

I bought a 2002 car a few months back and am definitely unimpressed with its condition as regards servicing. The car had a full set of dealer maintenance stamps from the place where it was bought. OK, so the basic job had been done but without any finesse or consideration for the long term welfare of the car.

Many bolts were overtightened and already rusted up making routine service work more difficult and likely to cause damage. These are only little things but on a car with 53K on it this was not what I was expecting. Changing the alternator/fan belts was a pig of a job simply because the clamp nut was horribly tight - way beyond the torque specified. The brake pad retaining pins on the front brakes had rusted in and had to be hammered out and replaced. One of the front wheel bearings was loose and the car had only been serviced 3000 miles ago. I could go on.

If was was looking for another Landcruiser, I would be tempted to buy privately so I could meet the owner/user and see if he (or she) had been interested in its maintenance enough to either do the routine stuff themselves (but properly) or get a mechanic who knew what he was doing to look after it.

Locally I have a small workshop run by a young chap who learned about vehicle maintenance in the army and seems to be able to sort out most problems. When I explain a problem, he listens. I can then watch while he fixes it (if I want to). I have much more confidence in him than an anonymous mechanic behind the facade at the nearest Toyota dealership.

If I sound a bit bitter and twisted try looking at the front of your local dealership at the fancy showroom and well dressed staff (front of house anyway) and wonder who pays for it all. OK so you are over a barrel regarding warranty if you want a failed part fixed but from that point onward I am not happy depending on an outfit whose prime objective is to part you from your money (maintenance charges, trade in deals and the price of new/replacement cars).

Rant over

But remember that Landrcruisers are made to be fixed in an African village behind the third mud hut on the left. I know recent models sold in the UK are trying to compete in the  Range Rover market with electric seats and self-winding windows but Toyota still deliver basic models where that's what the market wants. It's a pity we (in the UK) don't get the chance to buy them here. There is a difference between basic/crudely made and basic/functional.

Willy
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imprator
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Joined: 10 Aug 2003
Posts: 43

PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 15:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my experience the majority of petrol vehicles ar fitted with a towbar, so if you try to avoid this you will limit your choice of vehicles.

Towing does increase mechanical strain and wear on all drivetrain components, brakes and the suspension. Occasional light towing won't really make much difference, but frequent towing of heavy loads will impact the vehicle over time. It shouldn't cause anything to break, but will mean that certain components (such as differentials) will require attention sooner than if no towing was undertaken.

If you find a car that you know has involved frequent heavy towing (e.g. earning its living towing a vehicle transportation trailer) then I suggest leaving it alone. That scenario isn't too likely, however - particularly with the petrol version, as another poster has pointed out. In the absence of such knowledge, just judge a vehicle with a towbar as you would one without. (Some owners or sellers are not above removing a towbar from well-used vehicles to disguise their history anyway.)

The only things really to watch for in particular on towbar-equipped vehicles are juddering under braking (which will probably be due to warped front brake disce; they will have to be raplaced, but it's not a massively expensive job) or drivetrain shunt. If there is any drivetrain shunt present - even if it is only detectable when stationary and shifting from Drive to Reverse and vice versa - I would walk away. It's only going to get worse, and will potentially be very expensive to fix.

Oh, look for oil leaking form the rear differential and rear wheel hubs as well - even if it is nothing more than faulty oil seals, replacing them is a sizeable (i.e.expensive) job.

Good luck.
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