The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

Mr D · * Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 28 Location: South Wales

Hi everyone,

Not long had my SWB 1998 90 series and I need to start to get everything together for a full service.
Where can I find the quantities of all the various fluids that I will need? Had a long look but cant find that info.
Its a manual 30d.
I have also found a few grease nipples on the prop are these the only ones and how often should they be done.

Thanks

Kev Very Happy

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Bosvark · *** Joined: 26 Feb 2008 Posts: 169 Location: High Peak

Hallo and welcome.
Your at the right place cause here are fellow Land Cruiser Nutter with a shed loads of experiance! Laughing

Lubricant quanteties:
Engine oil- 8Lt with new oil filter in place
Diff's- 2Lt +/-

there are several grease nipples on both univ joints, you have to remove all under body guarding to get to them all.

enjoy

Landcrusher · Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 19:48 Post subject:

All these should be in the handbook under 'specifications'. One thing to watch out for before you get trigger happy with the grease gun. One of the rear nipples greases a thing called the slip yoke. This is a sliding joint in the rear prop shaft that allows the rear axle to go up and down vertically - therefore making the shaft longer and shorter between the transfer box and rear diff. This can be overfilled thereby leading to the expansion cavity being full of solid grease. When you compress it, it places all of the load on the UV joint leading to wear. As you grease it, you will see the two parts of the shaft start to expand. Oops gone too far.

The other oils such as middle diff, front diff and rear diff, just fill them until they overflow out of the filler plug.

Delighted that you have joined the Brotherhood of the Short Wheelbase. Tonnes of knowledge on here re your baby. Just one favour - please do use the search facility before you post. There's not much that we haven't covered before.

LC
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

Mr D · * Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 28 Location: South Wales

Thanks both for the info, what are the rough amounts of fluid required for the gear box and is it the same as the diff's?
I took the undertrays off to-night (apart from the front one) for a closer look and found a second shaft, I also found the slip joints you talked about and I just gave each nipple on the 2 shafts 3 pumps of the grease gun. I hope that was not two much Confused

I've also been underneath with the pressure washer as its getting a good coat of waxoil over the weekend as I intend to keep it for a while.
I am looking to keep it in good nic as I have a few trips to France planned next year and I want to make sure everything is as it should be.
I looked up Milner 4x4 and service kits filters etc are cheap, are they ok to use?
I have noticed that my rear diff wont lock (light flashes) and the air con does not work Crying or Very sad

but I will look at those again. I did manage to get my electric sunroof working which is a bonus.
Apart from that its in good nic for a 130k vehicle.

Its worlds apart from the old landrover I used to own thats for sure Very Happy

Kev

Landcrusher · Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 20:33 Post subject:

Yeah, the sun roof packing up is not uncommon. Odd given the incredible reliability of Toymo's.

You know that rear diff lock only works in low ratio? If it won't go in then after a bit of back and forth, then it's stuffed. Check the old postings, it's all on the including pictures. Put it in low ration, turn the dial then jack up one rear wheel and turn it by hand for the ultimate test.

You won't need much oil in the diff etc.I'll look out the specs for you - but check the handbook? Air con, look in the sight glass though the front grille. There should be green fluid in there. There are a couple of leaky points, but they're easy and cheap to have fixed.

LC
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

Mr D · * Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 28 Location: South Wales

Landcrusher · Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 21:17 Post subject:

Well, you need to consider sealing it if you're not bothered about locking it. You should be ok as the back of the motor has an o ring which keeps everything in and everything else out. Post a pic when you have enough postings and I'll give you an opinion. It may be salvageable. I have some spare bits off my original. Including the casing.
Aircon should not really be more than about £70 to fix and honestly there are places that can do it for about £50. Usually leaks on the front two joints which are 6mm o rings from memory.

LC
_________________
HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

Landcrusher · Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 17:18 Post subject:

OOOOh, direct hit. You've sunk my Lancruiser.

That look like a smackeroo on the casing somehow. Look I have a case in the garage - minus crack. There is a good chance that the internals are OK on yours. If so then we could make a good un out of the two. It's probably just the casing touching the worm gear. OK, if you're really not bothered about the locker, then fine. But if you change your mind, give me a shout. Don't worry about stuff getting into your cavity (ooer) there is a seal on the pinion shaft. See pic. See also bash guard for stopping this happening in the first place. Protect your investment.

_________________
HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

Mr D · * Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 28 Location: South Wales

Thanks for posting the pic's for me hopefully it wont be to long yntil I can post them myself.

LC, I would like to get it working if poss, I hate things that dont work Mad

I guess the unit is easy to change but getting the bolts undone being the hard part!!
At least it is good to know that even with the crack in the case no harm will come.

I take it its the rusty bit in your pic that is behind the outer casing?
How does this actually thing work?

Kev

Landcrusher · Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 17:28 Post subject:

The unit has two counter wound clock springs. When the motor fires up, it spins a worm gear that acts on the large geared wheel tensioning one of the springs. The motor then shuts off. The whole thing only tuns about 70 degrees. When the diff all lines up, and the rack inside the diff housing is free to move, the tension stored in the spring whizzes the pinion round, winding the rack inside the diff. When you disengage, the other spring gets wound up until the rack can release the pinion and whizz the opposite way. Quite clever and simple. What happens is that between the diff and the case of the motor there is a little cavity that will with raod salt etc and simply rots into a hole as you can see. Then the outside gets inside. New motor here we go. Yours, however, looks like it's had a bash.

Getting it off is not hard. There are two bolts and one stud form memory. There are little locating lugs and some small machine screw holding the cover on. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO UNDO THEM. They WILL shear. Trust me. You need to do that on a bench, warm them, WD40 them etc etc. You may find that once the 3 fastening ore off it wont come off. It just takes patience. There is nothing more holding it on. I can always whip mine off and show you what it looks like behind there.

Actually, you can see the 3 fixing holes in the picture. Ahh, handy edit facility. Here's a picture that I took at the time. See? No mystery.

LC
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

Mr D · * Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 28 Location: South Wales

It looks like a job worth doing, if just a replacement case will do the trick.

I would be interested in your secondhand case if interested in selling it. I have a brother who worked on old rusty landrovers for years so a few rusty bolts should be no problem, it has to be worh a go.

Kev

Landcrusher · Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:29 Post subject:

Kev, I think that the first thing would be to get it off and have a look at it. Perhaps remove it and connect it back up to the power and see if it's 'live' as it were. If the back plate is intact, it may well be a runner. You are welcome to my spare bits for nothing (postage maybe) if all you need is the casing. If you need internals, I think mine may be too far gone. Yours actually look to be in very reasonable condition other than the crack. It's not a complicated thing to take to bits, but just bare in mind my comments about the little screws!

LC
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)

Mr D · * Joined: 23 Sep 2008 Posts: 28 Location: South Wales

Landcrusher · Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 19:48 Post subject:

Good Man. Always here to help. And as everyone knows, rear diff locks are my hobby horse. There are those who never use them and those who want one but cant afford one. I fi sell mine, the new one will be coming off and the old one going back one I can tell you. Straight onto flea bay.

LC
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HDJ 80 but still a 90 owner at heart (yeah right!)