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odd torque converter lockup problem


 
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Pugwash
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 17:41    Post subject: odd torque converter lockup problem Reply with quote

Been having odd torque converter lockup problems and im hoping someone can help

the lockup clutch physically works

BUT i can only get it working in the following conditions:

On a motorway accelerate up to around 70-80 (its not a consistant speed) and the gearbox will lockup and stay locked until i force it to down change by using kickdown or by braking. It unlocks fine. Once it has locked up once it will lock and unlock at around 42mph no problem (bit early probably caused by gearing differences due to bigger tyres) for the rest of the journey.

When i turn the engine off and then restart the car a bit later then lockup USUALLY doesn't happen so i have to get up to 70-80 again

i have a diagnosis in mind, but would like to hear from others first!
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 18:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year or gearbox? If it's the later box, are you allowing for the fact that it won't lockup until the engine coolant temperature reaches normal? I asume the earlier box does something similar but with ATF temperature.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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Desperatezulu
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 20:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine also locks up at around 40mph - I have standard tyres and A442 'box, so that sounds normal. Are you suggesting that if you accelerate up to 80 and achieve lock-up, if you then take your foot off the accelerator and let it coast down to 30mph, it remains locked? If so, how do you know this - if you gas it again, it should kick down? I suppose that if it doesn't kick down and the engine "bogs" on re-applying throttle then that would confirm that it's still locked!  Confused But you have indicated that it does kickdown ok...
Not sure I fully get the problem... I wouldn't have much of an idea anyway, assuming you've ruled out ATF issues such as cooked fluid or not properly warmed up.

Cheers,
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joinerman
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 20:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 94 has the A442F box & annoyingly locks up at 38mph, i say annoyingly because when following people in a 40 mph limit who drive just under the limit it's forever locking up then dropping out, mine will also lock up straight away from a cold start.
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 21:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

joinerman wrote:
mine will also lock up straight away from a cold start.
That's supposed to be inhibited to let the ATF warm up but I don't think the FSM actually gives a temperature cut off. The other thing I would check is solenoid operation from cold - drop the oil pan, remove the lock up solenoid and do an air test on it. Maybe it doesn't work till the ATF has got very hot. 70-80 without lockup will soon have it toasty.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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Pugwash
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 16:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

well don't know where to start with this

reckon it could be temp related- but where the hell is the sender for the ATF? as if i could change that quickly and cheaply then that would be easier than droppping the valve body (which really really really scares- all those little springs!). Also the valve body has two solenoids that are unmarked C1 and C2- but nowehere does it seem to say which controls TC lockup- which one do i test?
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 22:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to tell us what year the vehicle is, or what box is fitted to be able to help.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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Pugwash
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 22:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry

it's a 93 UK 1HD-T spec with A442F box (the one with the overdrive button)

had the T/C rebuilt about 8 months ago by the gearbox people in Exeter (can't remember their names but iirc they are ones you recommended Jon) and it definitely works ok- just get this random lockup thing

it could well be a temp sender problem, but i can't find a reference to a G/Box temp sender in either the EPC or FSMs (although i could well have missed them). I also suspect a dodgy solenoid- because once it starts to work it works ok- almost as if the solenoid was sticking. First port of call for me would be the temp sender as long as it is accessible and reasonably easy/cheap to fix/replace!
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Pugwash
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 22:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

ps i also have far too long kickdown cable so its not quite adjusted right, but i didn't think this affected TC lockup?
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jvoelcker
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another thing to check is the Throttle Position Sensor - I am coming across more and more 80s where these haven't been set correctly - on the earllier A442 the kickdown cable setting seems to be quite critical, but on the later A442F boxes the TPS setting seems to have a greater effect.

Check the settings on the TPS initially and also check the condition of the oil - most 80s I come across have really shitty oil in them which can make a bit a difference to gear changes, etc.  For some reason once the cars come off dealer servicing the gearboxes seem to get ignored.
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Julian
1994 HDJ80, with loads of mods without looking too obscene Smile
1997 KZJ95 - Gilly's - plain black and muddy on BFG ATs.
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 11:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pugwash wrote:
it's a 93 UK 1HD-T spec with A442F box (the one with the overdrive button) had the T/C rebuilt about 8 months ago by the gearbox people in Exeter (can't remember their names but iirc they are ones you recommended Jon) and it definitely works ok- just get this random lockup thing
Ah, your mention of C1 & C2 made me want to check. Those are clutches (and there's a C0 as well) and have nothing to do with the TC. There are also accumulator pistons that are exposed if you remove the valve body which you may see with Cx labels. Those are not the solenoids I mean either  Laughing There are some electrical solenoids controlled by the ECU that can be serviced without removing the valve body.

Julian makes a good point about the throttle position sensor cable (what you're calling kick down cable). If they're just badly adjusted then your gear changes are not optimal and one symptom is harsh changes into second sometimes. I would start by seeing how stiff your TPS cable is from cold - does the cable return freely? If the cable were sticking it will tend to stick in the open throttle position and inhibit lock up. Perhaps once warm enough it would free off and allow normal operation.

If your TPS seems to move freely then I doubt just being poorly adjusted would cause your symptoms and the next step IMO is to check the lock up solenoid is working ok.

The ECU for the gearbox is on the bulkhead above the brake pedal. You can test the solenoid coil resistance by removing the ECU multi-plug and finding the connection for the lock up solenoid. If you don't already have it see the FSM for details: www.mudtoys.com/manuals/RM315E.pdf , RM314E.pdf and also RM314E-1995-Supplement.pdf . Check the resistance is in spec (from cold).

You can give the lock up solenoid a better test by draining the ATF, removing the oil pan and then removing the lock up solenoid. Blow compressed air through the solenoid while applying power and see if it is functioning correctly.

See how you get on with those checks.

P.S. I've never used the place in Exeter so I don't think I would have recommended them.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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jvoelcker
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 14:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon,

I was actually referring to the TPS on top of the injection pump found on the later auto boxes - I have seen some of these removed and then incorrectly put back on as well as some that have gone out of adjustment.  I have made up a wiring harness to easily test these and find around 50% of them are out of sync.  If you follow the circuit in the manual it is very easy to test.

Also the Exeter firm would have been promoted by Christopher Bell, although obviously Ian isn't a fan  Wink
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Julian
1994 HDJ80, with loads of mods without looking too obscene Smile
1997 KZJ95 - Gilly's - plain black and muddy on BFG ATs.
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Pugwash
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 14:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

dammit more stuf to check lol

anyone know where i would find the temp sender for the ATF as a place to start?

pretty sure the oil will be ok as it was only changed 8,000 miles ago- it was flushed and fully replaced as the TC was rebuilt!
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Oaktree
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 23:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I've had failure of both TPS and 'Lock-up' solenoid.

My TPS failed because the carbon track (think crackly volume control), had worn out in the middle of its travel so the auto-box ECU wasn't getting the full message. It was like driving a kangaroo! Slow speed Ok (Small throttle opening) , High speed OK (Large throttle opening), Mid-range: No signal = No ECU idea = Kangaroo gearchange.

However your problem does sound like intermittant Lock-up solenoid. From memory mine lasted about 2 weeks before it wouldn't lock at all. To get at it you need to take the sump off the auto-box, then the filter screen, then I think the solenoids are accessable. There are 4 solenoids, 3 different versions (different brackets) and unfortunately (because I cant remember which one, although mine looked very burnt)  the version of which there is 2 off, one is for lock-up. The part No. is T85420-60060 (about £100 in 2004!) Watch out for ATF dripping into eyes, ears etc!

Hope this helps.
Good luck
Nigel

93 VX 1HD-T A442F Auto
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 23:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pugwash wrote:
dammit more stuf to check lol

anyone know where i would find the temp sender for the ATF as a place to start?

pretty sure the oil will be ok as it was only changed 8,000 miles ago- it was flushed and fully replaced as the TC was rebuilt!
I don't know where that sender is, never had cause to track it down but it's an engine coolant temperature sensor and IIRC FSM 315E documents testing it at least. If it did turn out to be out of spec you could track it down by process of elimination I should think. The ATF temp sender for the overheating light is on the cooler outlet pipe union on the gearbox but I don't think that does anything more than put the light on.

The lock up solenoid is the end one on the (UK) drivers side. Drain the ATF, refit plug and leave overnight before draining again and removing pan, minimises how much ATF you taste.

Do check the TPS cable to the gearbox is moving freely, this is the other most obvious candidate for your symptoms because they can corrode and start to stick.
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Jon m0zxj

01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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