The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club

billybear · ** Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 58

Hi guys
Just removed all the bolts from sump then managed to loosen sump from engine which takes some doing as its stuck on really good.Do i have to remove the tie bar to get the sump off?Tried moving sump around but cant remove it,it can only slide so far forward then it hits the oil strainer,any ideas guys.thanks.

Google · Sponsor

lucky · Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 18:03 Post subject:

Might need to unbolt the engine mounts and jack up the front of the engine on the crankshaft pulley (block of wood required to go easy on the pulley. A crane would be better but not many people have these.
_________________
1999 Land Cruiser Amazon VX Active 4.2TD Auto
Gloucestershire 4x4 Response
Landcruiser-rocks

billybear · ** Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 58

Well i might have to do that but it dosnt say anything like that in the manual it makes it sound easy.Does not say anything about jacking the engine up,i will see what Dave says because he as done his not so long back just seems like the tie bar is in the way.There is what looks like two cast parts one in each corner they seem to stop the sump from lowering down dont know if they can be removed.They are right where the engine meets the gearbox.The sump looks like it needs to slide forward first to clear these cast parts and then lowerd its then that the tie bar is in the way.

Towpack · Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 21:52 Post subject:

Have you got the car on axle stands with the stands under the chassis rails and not the axle.This takes the weight off the suspension and lets it sag making it easier to manoevre the sump out.
_________________
Phil

1998 HDJ80 Amazon VX 4.2TD
2004 Yamaha R1 (Sold)
2011 Ducati 1198SP (Sold)
2012 kawasaki ZZr1400
2002 Honda XR650R (BRP)- STOLEN GRRRRR!!!
2010 Husaberg FE570....YIPPEEEEE!!!!
2003 GT XCR3000
1995 Border Collie-Passed away 23-5-2011

billybear · ** Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 58

Well managed to get it off, had the car on ramps so i had to jack the front up to get more room it then come off no problem.I think any of the ways you guys suggested would of worked.Does anybody know what is the correct torque settings for the big end bearing bolts.Thanks.

billybear · ** Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 58

Just tried a socket on the end bearing bolts,they wont move.I thought with all that oil that they would come off easy but not the case.Will try a bigger socket set so i can get more leverage,dont want to round them off or i will be in the shit!

Towpack · Posted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 17:30 Post subject:

The torque settings in the Haynes for the 1HZ,1HD-T & 1HD-FT manual are:

First step......................27ft/lbs
Second step..................Turn another 90 degrees.
_________________
Phil

1998 HDJ80 Amazon VX 4.2TD
2004 Yamaha R1 (Sold)
2011 Ducati 1198SP (Sold)
2012 kawasaki ZZr1400
2002 Honda XR650R (BRP)- STOLEN GRRRRR!!!
2010 Husaberg FE570....YIPPEEEEE!!!!
2003 GT XCR3000
1995 Border Collie-Passed away 23-5-2011

billybear · ** Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 58

Thanks for that Phill,changed big end bearings just need to refit sump.

DaveN · ******* Joined: 14 May 2005 Posts: 1190 Location: Sweden

Well as you've got it off, then I guess you know the 2 supports that go between the engine and gearbox need to be removed, sorry, forgot that step.

When you tighten the bolts, turn the engine over before moving onto the next one.

You can also remove the connection on the end of the diesel pump to stop it firing when you've got it all back together, so you can crank it over to get some oil pressure up.

What did the shells look like?

Towpack · Posted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 18:32 Post subject:

Glad you managed it.It'll put your mind at rest no doubt!
Were you getting any noise symptoms from the engine? I'm getting a strange clicking noise from somewhere.Doesn't do it when cold and not all the time when hot either.Usually starts around 1500rpm to 2500 rpm when accellerating but seems to dissappear above that.Can't hear it if the engine is just revved in neutral.Car runs/pulls great.Changed the oil a couple of times but it's clean.Sounds too 'tinny' to be big ends,almost like tappets but they're OK.It's wierd.It's only done 51K.
_________________
Phil

1998 HDJ80 Amazon VX 4.2TD
2004 Yamaha R1 (Sold)
2011 Ducati 1198SP (Sold)
2012 kawasaki ZZr1400
2002 Honda XR650R (BRP)- STOLEN GRRRRR!!!
2010 Husaberg FE570....YIPPEEEEE!!!!
2003 GT XCR3000
1995 Border Collie-Passed away 23-5-2011

billybear · ** Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 58

Did not have to remove those corner supports just jacked the front end up higher and it came out no problem, will post the pics of the shells soon. Cylinder 1-3-5 where in a bad way am really glad I done this job because almost certainly the engine would have blown up in the not to distant furture. Because the shells are a soft steel there is no damage to the crankshaft, this part of the engine is a weak point so now they are done the engine should be fine now for many more miles. My car has done 177k so a engine that has done only 51k should be fine or thats what you would expect but engines that I seen on the internet had the same sort of damage even though they had covered only 70k, they normally have a ticking sound and slight drop in oil pressure. You would have to be unlucky for yours to fail at 51k but there is no real way of knowing unless you checked them, for what it costs I think I would do them because the thought of an engine failure does not bear thinking about.My car did not show any of the signs of failure it sounded fine it was only after dave suggested i check them out which am glad i did other wise i would have had a nasty surprise in the furture.I did find a couple of little steel particles in my oil when i changed it,you have to sieve the oil because there hard to spot,that was the biggest indication of a problem.

DaveN · ******* Joined: 14 May 2005 Posts: 1190 Location: Sweden

Towpack, the noise you mention sounds just like mine. Only when warm under hardish acceleration, sounds like a tappet or a stone stuck in the tyre, or even a slight exhaust leak. But sometimes it doesn't seem to do it.

I only started to notice after I'd done the big ends, and fearing the worse, stripped it down again just to check the ends, but they were ok. Since then I've done the tappets, new injectors, rebuilt pump, checked the exhaust, changed the slightly leaking exhaust manifold gasket, checked the harmonic balancer, checked turbo wastegate operation. And guess what, it's still there. So I've basically given up and try to ignore it, and it hasn't gone bang yet.

The only shell on mine that was really bad was no. 3 top, though the bottom was was showing signs. All the others only showed a bit of normal wear.

One other thing for you billybear, have you checked your valve clearances? Hate for you to have to do more work, but toyota never check them, as the book says only to check when noisy. Problem is, they don't get noisy as the valves regress into the head actually closing the clearances, till eventually the exhaust valves can't close properly leading to burnt out valves. Worth checking as 2 or 3 of mine were well tight.

billybear · ** Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 58

Well lets face it we love messing around with are motors we would not be happy if we had nothing to do lol.Yes m8 the big ends are just the start its in my nature to go right through the whole car till i think everythink is ok.I like to get to the stage where all i have to do is polish.lol.

billybear · ** Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 58

take no notice

Towpack · Posted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 23:03 Post subject:

DaveN

Looks like you've checked most of the things I have (and was going to) check.I also disconnected the EGR valves as they were 'clicking'.I had it to the dealers and took it for a run with their chief mechanic and would you believe it sounded pretty quiet! He said the only problem he'd come across on these engines was exhaust leaks causing ticking sounds.I've also read this on the net somewhere.Curiously enough mine has just had a brand new front pipe fitted by the dealer I bought it from although it does seem to be fitted & sealed correctly.I've done nearly 2000 miles including 1200 miles towing a boat up to Scotland since I first heard the noise and it's got no better or worse.I've driven cars with worn big ends before and and they sounded nothing like this! Guess I'll just keep experimenting & trying things.
_________________
Phil

1998 HDJ80 Amazon VX 4.2TD
2004 Yamaha R1 (Sold)
2011 Ducati 1198SP (Sold)
2012 kawasaki ZZr1400
2002 Honda XR650R (BRP)- STOLEN GRRRRR!!!
2010 Husaberg FE570....YIPPEEEEE!!!!
2003 GT XCR3000
1995 Border Collie-Passed away 23-5-2011