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MOT & Wheel bearings advice needed.

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Ecky Thump
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 12:49    Post subject: MOT & Wheel bearings advice needed. Reply with quote

Laughing Yet another MOT under my belt and a pass as usual. Laughing

I've never had a vehicle like the 80 that never seems to need much doing and never fails (Touch Wood).

Every year I have to tighten the F/N/S wheel bearing and this year I have to do both but that's no big deal.

Last year I did the rear anti roll bar drop link bushes which came out as an advisory and this year it's the fronts on advisory so i'll do them anyway.

How do you folks get on with your MOT's??

Question for Julian and the other mechanics....I have tightened the F/N/S wheel bearing every year for five years now, How much adjustment do they have in them, and ought I to think about replacing them with 140000 on the clock?
There is no noise yet and they always seem okay after tightening.
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Les
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1998 VX Ltd Auto 4.2TD 24 valve beast!! OME 50mm lift & Safari Snorkel
1997 auto petrol 80 (for Er'in'doors)
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busaboy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 13:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Need to do mine i think, how did you do them? I have ordered manual but want to get them done this weekend.
Any special tools needed?
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1995 4.2 80 Series VX 24 valve, manual. 285/75 - 16 BFG Muds, Ironman +2", TJM Winch Bumper with T-Max Winch, Safari Snorkel, Superpro poly bush kit.
SOLD TO AFRICA
100 Series now on the drive
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Desperatezulu
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 13:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good work, Les!
So no hassles over your rear shocks then? I guess you can go back to "stalking" the new suspension kit and not be rushed into it!  Very Happy

I'm going to attempt my MOT in the next week or 2 and see what I get....

Cheers,
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Andrew

'98 LC80 4.2TD VX 24v
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suvsteve
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 14:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep as soon as i get the gear box done i will have to mot it for adjusting the wheel bearing you will need a 54mm socket or 55 will do

1) jack the car support it on stands bla bla bla remove the wheel

2) tap of the grease dome cover in the center remove the cerclip of the spline

3) undo the six 10mm nuts on the drive flange (if you have wheel spacers remove them) under the nuts you have just taken of you will see wot look like
washer they are tapered washers to get them out you will have to smack the side-edge of the drive flange hard
the heavier the hammer the better (not sledge hammer tho and mind the wheel studs) tickeling dont work

4) slide the drive flange of you can now see the big ars nut-s there is a lockwasher on these tap the tab flat and undo the first nut take the lock washer of
and hammer flat or replace now its up to you if you repack with grease or just tighten as you can only do the outer bearing without removing the caliper and you only wanted to know about adjustment  Smile

5) tighten the inner nut to i think 64lbs but check as im not sure then slacken off and retighten to 5lbs yes thats right 5lbs put the lock washer back on
dont bend the tabs yet put the lock nut on and tighten to firm hand tight then spin the hub it should spin fairly free with no play if you have play
then repeat the procedure untill happy now bend the tabs on the washer to lock the two nuts

6) refit the drive flange with the dome washers nuts tighten then firmly but dont go mad as they are only fine threds

7) now find a bolt that fits in the end of the cv pref a long one and use that to pull the cv out tho the drive flange and put the curclip back on an
refit the grease cover by tapping it back on and refit wheelspacer wheel etc remove axel stands lower car bla bla

if ive got any thing wrong please correct me and if any one knows the exact touqe wrench settings for all the nuts bolts etc please post them
its been a while since ive done mine but realy dont think im far of in wot i say
hope this helps  Very Happy  Very Happy  Very Happy  Very Happy  Very Happy
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Towpack
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 17:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wheel bearing preload - 43ft lb        59NM
Loosen and torque to  -  48ins lbs    5.4Nm

Starting torque measured with spring balance on wheel stud should now be  6.2 - 12.6lb (if you want to bother with measuring it).

Locknut                        -  65ft lbs      88Nm
Stub axle flange bolts  -  26ft lbs      35Nm
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Phil


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Ecky Thump
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 17:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desperatezulu wrote:
Good work, Les!
So no hassles over your rear shocks then? I guess you can go back to "stalking" the new suspension kit and not be rushed into it!  Very Happy

I'm going to attempt my MOT in the next week or 2 and see what I get....

Cheers,


Hi Andrew

No the shocks passed again even though one of the dust shields has rotted to bits. The suspension is still next in line but I have just found a 3 door Prado that the missus wants so the suspension will have to go on hold again.

I put injector cleaner in a quarter tank of fuel yesterday forgetting about the MOT and panicked this morning thinking that the cleaner may screw my emissions up.
Totally to the contrary the emissions were the lowest i've ever had and they are always low anyway.
The MOT'er said that is one way they get the emissions down if a diesel is just over the threshold so it's something to remember in the future.

Good luck with your MOT Andrew.
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Les
TLOCUKSB Member No.80
1998 VX Ltd Auto 4.2TD 24 valve beast!! OME 50mm lift & Safari Snorkel
1997 auto petrol 80 (for Er'in'doors)
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Desperatezulu
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 20:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you're going to be getting a new outlet for your money, Les   Shocked   Have fun playing with the SWB - hopefully it doesn't start competing with the 80 for your attention!  Very Happy
So the suspension's on hold until after Lincomb at least then - I'm still keen to see if we can work the "group buy" angle getting the suspension if you are.

Cheers,
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'98 LC80 4.2TD VX 24v
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busaboy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 20:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the suspension front..........
Have been phoning the world and his wife and its looking like  West Coast 4x4 is the winner for Ironman, the middle rated setting.
All shocks and springs supply and fitted for approx £420 plus vat, need to check if this include the steering damper although i think it does as i asked for a supply only price first.  To only supply it is the same price !!!!!!!!
OME from TBR coming in at £615 plus £185 fitting.
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1995 4.2 80 Series VX 24 valve, manual. 285/75 - 16 BFG Muds, Ironman +2", TJM Winch Bumper with T-Max Winch, Safari Snorkel, Superpro poly bush kit.
SOLD TO AFRICA
100 Series now on the drive
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Grimbo
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 21:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never had a problem with MOT's with any of my landcruisers either , its simple - do all the little jobs as they crop up and you stay on top of any poss failures come MOT time.
Ecky- If somone can give me a step by step guide to posting pics I have some before and after pics of my cruiser when I fitted the OME suss kit so you can get an idea what yours will look like with a 2 and a bit inch lift. Not a million miles away if you want a look or drive before you invest .
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Ecky Thump
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 21:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still into the group buy guys. Probably a (early) summer job for me.

I was planning on doing the fit myself but may consider having it done if it works out right.

The new SWB will not take up too much just yet because it will be stored until October. The market is quite favourable at the moment to buy, hence the reason for not waiting until later in the year.
At least the SWB will only be used on road, mostly for transporting Dobermanns so shouldn't need much money spending on it apart from a dog guard.
( evil2 Unless I get hold of it of course  evil2 )
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Les
TLOCUKSB Member No.80
1998 VX Ltd Auto 4.2TD 24 valve beast!! OME 50mm lift & Safari Snorkel
1997 auto petrol 80 (for Er'in'doors)
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Ecky Thump
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 22:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grimbo wrote:
Never had a problem with MOT's with any of my landcruisers either , its simple - do all the little jobs as they crop up and you stay on top of any poss failures come MOT time.
Ecky- If somone can give me a step by step guide to posting pics I have some before and after pics of my cruiser when I fitted the OME suss kit so you can get an idea what yours will look like with a 2 and a bit inch lift. Not a million miles away if you want a look or drive before you invest .


Hi Grimbo

Spotted you weren't far away, I'd love to have a look and I guess Desperatezulu would be interested too as he is only up the road.

As for the photo bit, I opened an account with www.photobucket.com
You download your photos to there and when you put your cursor over a pic it brings up a menu,
look for the bit that says       [IMG]http://i660.photobucket.............blah blah blah[/IMG]
just copy and paste this into whatever you are typing.

Make sure you go into account options and make it private if you don't want all and sundry to see your albums.

We will have to jack up a meet, PM me if that is okay.
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Les
TLOCUKSB Member No.80
1998 VX Ltd Auto 4.2TD 24 valve beast!! OME 50mm lift & Safari Snorkel
1997 auto petrol 80 (for Er'in'doors)
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Desperatezulu
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 22:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm always game to meet up and learn something! I have family (in-laws) in East Sussex so can probably make it a family trip and detour on to meet up without using up valuable brownie points  Cool

Cheers,
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Andrew

'98 LC80 4.2TD VX 24v
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 9:13    Post subject: Re: MOT & Wheel bearings advice needed. Reply with quote

Ecky Thump wrote:
Question for Julian and the other mechanics....I have tightened the F/N/S wheel bearing every year for five years now, How much adjustment do they have in them, and ought I to think about replacing them with 140000 on the clock?
There is no noise yet and they always seem okay after tightening.


Ideally take the hub off completely, clean out all the old grease, inspect the bearing rollers and races for wear - it's the only way to check the quality of them - also it is recommended that you do this every 30,000miles or so for normal driving, halve that for a lot of offroading.

When tightening up the wheel bearings....

This should be carried out with the brake pads out of the calliper.
1. Torque the inner nut to 43ft-lbs
2. Turn the disk/hub at least five times left and right to bed the bearing in with the new grease.  This is made easier by slotting a stubby screwdriver or punch into the vents on the outer edge of the disk and using it as a handle.
3. Repeat the 1 and 2 above multiple times until there is no movement on the inner nut when re-torquing (it should just click with no movement).  If you have fitted new bearings you will probably find that the inner nut will turn quite a bit when you first start torquing it.
4. Loosen the inner nut until it can be turned by hand, making sure that you do not rotate or move the hub.
5. Torque the inner nut to 3ft-lbs.  This is very difficult to measure on the average torque wrench – I tend to just grab the hub socket with both hands and do it hand tight – yes t will be slightly over the 3ft-lbs, but it won’t be too tight to cause problems)
6. Check that the hub turns smoothly and that the bearings have no play.
7. Measure the pre-load on the hub by getting a length of string (about 50-75cm long) with two loops at each end, loop one end onto one of the wheel studs on the hub, then wrap the string around the studs and attach the other end to the a set of fishing scales capable of going up to 15lbs.  Then pull on the scales to rotate the hub and check the measurement on the scales – this should be around 6-12lbs.  If it isn't within range, repeat all the procedures above.  (I tend to ignore this step and rely on experience – with different greases and different ambient temperatures the pre-load can vary greatly)
8. Install the lock washer and outer lock nut, torquing it to 47ft-lbs.
9. Check that the hub turns smoothly and that the bearings have no play.
10. Measure the preload again.
11. Once you are happy, bend two of the tabs of the star washer over the inner nut and the other two over the outer lock nut.
12. Job done.
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Julian
1994 HDJ80, with loads of mods without looking too obscene Smile
1997 KZJ95 - Gilly's - plain black and muddy on BFG ATs.
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garystockton
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never seen a guy who makes his living maintaining other people's vehicles so happy to oblige and give out free information like this!  Shocked

Julian - you definitely need a few free beers at Lincomb - definite star!!  salute

I'm sure we all appreciate your wealth of knowledge. cheers  

wav
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Julian obviously has a lot more wheel bearing jobs passing through his hands than me so take this with a pinch of salt but I've found the factory torque specs won't hold the pre-load very long with bigger/knobly tyres and so do mine up much tighter. Toyota will have chosen those numbers with good reason but on my 80 they were a joke, on Stephs they were fine till the 35's went on and now my 100 was fine till the 36's went on ... I'd say the best torque figure is going to depend how much extra leverage the bearings are going to have to put up with and turn it up a bit depending on how big your tyres are.
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