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Bat21 ***
Joined: 14 May 2009 Posts: 246 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 20:11 Post subject: Antifreeze colour |
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After checking my antifreeze on my newly acquired 1992 4.2D VX Turbo I noticed there is virtually none in there (the water is almost clear).
I'm sure someone told me that it should have the Red antifreeze however, when I went to buy some today my local motor factor said the Blue antifreeze will be fine for the 1992 model.
So, are they right or should my motor be have the Red antifreeze in it, or will it not make any difference? |
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 20:11 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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joinerman *******
Joined: 11 Sep 2005 Posts: 2200 Location: Here & there
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 20:36 Post subject: |
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Use ONLY red coolant from yota, if it's an auto then it's doubly important. |
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a13bee **
Joined: 11 Sep 2008 Posts: 78 Location: devon
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 21:25 Post subject: |
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hi joinerman can you tell us why it is doubly important to use red in a auto regards _________________ landcruiser is for life, i love my cruiser |
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joinerman *******
Joined: 11 Sep 2005 Posts: 2200 Location: Here & there
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 22:09 Post subject: |
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The ATF fluid runs through a section at the bottom of the rad to cool, the division between the two parts is thin metal, if this corrodes then you get atf in the cooling system & water in the gearbox usually with terminal result |
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Bat21 ***
Joined: 14 May 2009 Posts: 246 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 22:18 Post subject: |
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joinerman wrote: |
Use ONLY red coolant from yota, if it's an auto then it's doubly important. |
Thanks joinerman, I guess I best get off to my local Toyota dealer in the morning.
joinerman wrote: |
The ATF fluid runs through a section at the bottom of the rad to cool, the division between the two parts is thin metal, if this corrodes then you get atf in the cooling system & water in the gearbox usually with terminal result |
So is the Red antifreeze a better corrosion inhibitor than the normal Blue antifreeze....... I think this is what you're saying? |
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Towpack *******
Joined: 10 May 2005 Posts: 1315 Location: Sheffield
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 22:22 Post subject: |
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Any ethylene Glycol based antifreeze will be OK used at the right concentration wether it's red or green or blue or whatever. The red antifreeze contains a reactive dye which changes colour to yellow if the coolant becomes acidic. I used the red type from Halfords.
It's important to use the right concentration to prevent cooloing system corrosion, particularly in the auto models as the ATF cooler is built into the radiator with obvious results if the pipes rot through. _________________ Phil
1998 HDJ80 Amazon VX 4.2TD
2004 Yamaha R1 (Sold)
2011 Ducati 1198SP (Sold)
2012 kawasaki ZZr1400
2002 Honda XR650R (BRP)- STOLEN GRRRRR!!!
2010 Husaberg FE570....YIPPEEEEE!!!!
2003 GT XCR3000
1995 Border Collie-Passed away 23-5-2011 |
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Bat21 ***
Joined: 14 May 2009 Posts: 246 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 22:37 Post subject: |
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Towpack wrote: |
Any ethylene Glycol based antifreeze will be OK used at the right concentration wether it's red or green or blue or whatever. The red antifreeze contains a reactive dye which changes colour to yellow if the coolant becomes acidic. I used the red type from Halfords.
It's important to use the right concentration to prevent cooloing system corrosion, particularly in the auto models as the ATF cooler is built into the radiator with obvious results if the pipes rot through. |
Thanks Phil, when you say "changes colour to yellow if the coolant becomes acidic" would this happen if there was a cross contamination from the ATF?
The reason I'm sounding concerned here is, the guy I recently brought my truck off told me that he had flushed the cooling system out as there was a lot of Red/Brown in the water He showed me the stuff he had got out of it and it certainly didn't look like rust.
Externally the rad looks like new but I guess that is no indication of its internal state
I have yet to get a workshop manual but I understand that the system holds 10 liters, would a 50/50 mix of the Red antifreeze be the correct concentration?
-----------
Paul
1992 Auto 4.2D VX Turbo |
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joinerman *******
Joined: 11 Sep 2005 Posts: 2200 Location: Here & there
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 22:59 Post subject: |
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Check your atf & see what condtion thats in, should be nice & red & not smell like burnt toast. |
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Towpack *******
Joined: 10 May 2005 Posts: 1315 Location: Sheffield
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Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 23:05 Post subject: |
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A head gasket leaking exhaust gases into the cooling would make the coolant acidic and turn it yellow, not the ATF. This would accelerate the corrosion in the system and hence the ATF cooling pipes in the rad. The cooling system in under pressure when hot so if the ATF pipes ruptured you'd more likely get hot coolant forced into the tranmission rather than the other way round.
I think from memory I used a 50/50 mix. Guidance on the bottle will give you recommended min & max concentrations. You can even buy it ready mixed, just works out a bit more expensive that's all.
When it's in the system it appears more of a pinky red than brown. _________________ Phil
1998 HDJ80 Amazon VX 4.2TD
2004 Yamaha R1 (Sold)
2011 Ducati 1198SP (Sold)
2012 kawasaki ZZr1400
2002 Honda XR650R (BRP)- STOLEN GRRRRR!!!
2010 Husaberg FE570....YIPPEEEEE!!!!
2003 GT XCR3000
1995 Border Collie-Passed away 23-5-2011 |
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Bat21 ***
Joined: 14 May 2009 Posts: 246 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 22:01 Post subject: |
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I brought 5 liters of the Red antifreeze from my local Toyota dealer today, as the system holds 10 liters I thought I'd just add 5 liters of water to the 5 liters of Red.... wrong, the Toyota Red is pre mixed doh
So £51 lighter (I brought 3 x 5 liter bottles just to make sure I have enough) I'm ready to tackle the job tomorrow, is it just a case of dropping the top and bottom hose and, once all the existing coolant has run out, running a hose pipe into the top of the rad to give it a good flush.. I'll probably do the same and flush the block.
Will doing the above flush the heater rad too or is there some trickery involved to make sure all the Green/Blue antifreeze is flushed out?
Once both the hoses are refitted and the new coolant poured in, will running the engine bleed the system or are there any air traps anywhere that I need to be aware of? |
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Spanners ***
Joined: 20 Jan 2006 Posts: 150 Location: Stafford
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Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 22:47 Post subject: |
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Hi
To properly drain the residue in the block there is a very hard to get at drain tap on the left hand side of the block. It is very hard to see but sits below the pipework of the diesel pump. From memory it has a 14mm body with a 10mm tap. When I undid mine the body and tap came out as one. You will need a 7/9" extension to get at it from above. I found using a small 1/4" drive the best, But dont cross thread it when putting it back in and dont overtighten!
cheers
Martin _________________ Landcruiser HDJ80 Auto 1993 |
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Towpack *******
Joined: 10 May 2005 Posts: 1315 Location: Sheffield
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Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 0:06 Post subject: |
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Removing the stat also makes flushing the block more efficient. A little bit more work but you can also stick a new stat in there while you're at it.
Fill the system slowly, squeezing the rad hoses also helps expel any air trapped. When the rad is full fit the cap, fill the expansion tank to the full mark then start and run the engine to full temp. This should bleed any remainiong air out through the expansion tank hose which will be replaced by coolant from the tank when the engine cools which will lower the tank level so recheck/top it up when the engine is completely cold. _________________ Phil
1998 HDJ80 Amazon VX 4.2TD
2004 Yamaha R1 (Sold)
2011 Ducati 1198SP (Sold)
2012 kawasaki ZZr1400
2002 Honda XR650R (BRP)- STOLEN GRRRRR!!!
2010 Husaberg FE570....YIPPEEEEE!!!!
2003 GT XCR3000
1995 Border Collie-Passed away 23-5-2011 |
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