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Engine stalling

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Nor
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Location: Oslo, Norway

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 23:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have fun then.
And Good Luck.
Keep us posted - it's good education.
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 23:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will do!  Thanks for your support!

N
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 20:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update!

Read fault codes (managed to get a scanner).  Two codes were present P1670 (code 32) and something to do with ECT.  FSM suggests either a duff Pump Correction Unit or Pump Correction Unit circuit.  Found the circuit test procedure in manual.  If the Rom is nailed a new one needs to be programed with the pump.

So if you're reading with the same problem & DTC and your truck is dead on the drive, choices are; recover the car to a specialist or strip the pump out and take it to someone like RVS for testing.

I'll post later with experiences!




rgds

N
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 20:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

latest update... Took pump to RVS, they were unable to test it and referred me to TT Automotive... which is a shame as they are great guys! Took Pump to TT who diagnosed (Diesel timing valve) & repaired within 1/2 day.  Cost £389 inc.  

Took a further couple of days to reassemble, finally finished this evening (or so I thought).  Anyway I couldn't get the truck to start, so I cracked off one of the injector pipe nuts at the back of the IP and nothing has changed.  No fuel between pump and injectors (diesel has been thoroughly primed with all air expelled).    

So has TT's repair failed? Is there something else wrong, such as the loom / harness to I.P. If this is the case was the pump ok?

Tune in next week for the next installment Sad
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 23:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take this with a pinch of salt, it's just the thoughts resulting from trauling through the FSM for an hour or two and googling what spill control valves do:

Your P1670 fault code is saying there's a fault in the injection pump correction unit circuit. That's the circuit between the ECU, EDU and SCV. The spill control valve controls presurised fuel being delivered to the injectors. When it has no power there's no fuel pressure in the injector pipes, when it has power there is, and that's how fine control of the injection cycle e.g. how long it injects for, is controlled. It looks like the ECU sends 'inject' signals to the EDU. The EDU (see page DI16 of the engine FSM) sends a modified signal timing to the spill control valve and is looks like the EDU is pump specific, as if it's tuned for that pumps characteristics.

I think your fault code is telling you that circuit (ECU->EDU->SCV) has broken down somewhere in a way that the ECU can detect e.g. open circuit that should be closed, closed circuit that should be open, wrong resistance.

Because I don't know exactly what you've done, my sugestion would be make sure everything is plugged in as it should be, disconnect the negative terminal of both batteries, have a cup of coffee (way longer than needed but I like to be sure), reconnect batteries, turn engine over and then verify that you still have the P1670 fault code and it hasn't been triggered accidentaly during diagnostics ... If you still get that fault code then I'd focus on the ECU->EDU->SPC circuit.

Like I said at the top, just me looking at the FSM and google, could be way off the mark.
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01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 12:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jon

I'll try that!  Thinking about it you could be on the money... When I first started to poke around, I removed all of the plugs to the pump and refitted.  Prior to this the car would start, after this I could get it to start at all.

What you say also makes sense, as when I spoke to the Toyo dealer the mentioned a spill valve modification.  TT said that all else (other than the timing control valve), checked out so that the SCV mod didn't need to be done. If this is the case I had a problem and caused another by poking around.  The first problem, likely has been resolved by TT and the short circuit now needs to be sorted.

As soon as I can get my head out of my hands i'll be on it.

Best regards

Nathan
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 0:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon

I've not touched the truck since my last post, but last time I was at it I noticed something unexpected... When bridging pin 4 & 13 on the obd2 diag port, the sat-nav lit up with what looked like a diag screen with 6 tests (all in japanese) each had 'ok' as a result.   Is it likely that the car has it's own diagnostic display (beyond the blinking engine light), albeit in japanese? In any case the engine symbol on the dash blinks evenly, showing that no DTC's are recorded

Also the car seems to have a few anomalies vs. the ECU wiring diags and locations for relays such as the Spill Valve Relay are not as per the FSM (to the lhs of the glove box).  I have a pet theory that this particular model (anniversary) is a hybrid lx470 with a diesel engine.  Many of the (tacky) interior features seem to be lifted from the US car and the sat-nav POIs for 'garage' only seem to reference Lexus garages?  If this is the case is there a different manual for this car?  Do I need get on to Toyo HQ.?

Anyway off skiing for a few days Smile   back on Friday.
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 10:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spoke to TT Automotive (repaired pump)... and they recon that it's the Spill Valve Relay!  This is a 3"sq. black box says 'Driver, Spill Valve Control' on it.  Anyone know how to test it?
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saskia
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 16:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nathan that 3" square box is only the Spill Valve Control, or in the manual they refer to it as the EDU. The relay is suppose to be inside the car Rolling Eyes ,

Quote:
SPILL VALVE RELAY
INSPECTION
1. REMOVE LH COWL SIDE R/B
2. REMOVE SPILL VALVE RELAY

To test the EDU or 3" square box

1. Check voltage between terminal 2 of wire harness side connector and body ground.

(a) Disconnect the EDU connector.
(b) Turn the ignition switch ON.
(c) Measure the voltage between terminal 2 of wire harness side connector and body ground.
Voltage: 10 to 14 V

2. Check resistance EDU ground bolt and body ground.

3. Check resistance between terminals 4 and 5 of wire harness side connector.
   Resistance: Approx. 1.7ohm


Now if somebody can explain how to get to the Relay Confused
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 0:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Saskia

(welcome to the forum)... I finally solved the problem, made difficult by the fact that there were multiple faults.  The first problem seemed to be a blocked fuel filter, which nailed the timing control valve on the IP, on removing the IP electrical plugs, the connector to the spill valve developed a short (common problem known to Toyota - 'Spill Valve Modification' includes replacement connector with part of the harness).

After a bit of fiddling around I managed to get the truck started and it's ran ever since... Now trying to source the 'sv' modification kit as the dealer wants £400 to do the mod Sad

Best regards


Nathan
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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to see you've got it going again Nathan and you know a lot more about your engine now  Laughing  I wonder what the 'sv' modification kit fixes, more than a bad connector for £400 surely?
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01 UZJ100 lifted (AHC & 40mm BL), ARB locked f&r, cryo'd 4.88's, TJM front bumper, 12k goldfish, sliders, rack, snorkel, 35's, storage, aux power etc.
93 HDJ80 sold
94 HDJ80 RIP
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jon

It was a relief to hear it fire back into life Smile  From what I can understand from the dealer, the kit comprises of a new connector, some wire, glue and silicone.   But four hours work??  Seems that at dealer hourly rates 4 hours and a £400 bill does not leave a lot of room for parts Confused  

Problem is that nobody seems to be able to find a part code for the kit.

regards

Nathan
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Nor
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 21:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having had the delightful experience of swapping in and out engines of, and between, a 2000 and a 2004; I found that one of the differences is the connector for the spill valve.
When fitting a 2000 engine into a 2004 car, I had to cut the SV plug off the harness of the 2000, with a few inches of the cable, and splice it into the SV plug in the 2004.  
The SV of the 2004 has a piece of cable attached, with a plug at the end.
The SV of the 2000 has a connector in its body, so that the harness has to be longer than in the 2004, in order to reach to the top of the IP.
The SV plug in the 2000 and the SV plug in the 2004 are not interchangeble, and even of opposite sex.
Could not see any problem with the any of the plugs though.

There where another coulple of differences between the two engines as well, fwiw
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nathanrobo
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 22:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Nor

That's interesting!  So no point trying to splice in part of a later harness.  From what I can tell the problem with the SV plug is that it's connectors are not sufficiently sprung to make good contact with the sv connectors (male).

I was wandering whether a small blob of solder on the plug's connectors would work?? The best solution would be getting hold of the modification kit.
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Nor
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 22:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I used for connecting the piece of harness for the 2000 Spill Valve was flat connectors commonly used on speakers. Same type as the 6.3 mm common in cars, only narrower. Is it 2.8 mm maybe? They fit the pins of the male plug of the 2004 harness perfectly, so I suppose they would fit the pre 2004 (or is it pre 2003) SV connector as well.  These flat connectors come in different qualities, so look out for cheapos.  
I suppose you could even cut off your existing SV plug, take two good quality female flat-connectors, crimp them on to the harness, plug them in to the SV, and cover it all with vulcanising tape.  That would fix any loose connection, and it can even be cut open for service.
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