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just got a 120; couple questions

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Nuclear Chicken
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crispin wrote:
'vette - think it was only the LC3 that came with the rear locker. Mine (LC4) and Gary's (LC5) do not. Sad Chris's LC3 also had one.

Not sure about the "levers" you talking about but all I have is the gear lever (mine's the manual) and the H/L lever which only has H / N / L.
As for locking the CD, that is a push button (electric) under the ashtray / nest to the, cough, seat warmers Wink No levers for that?


Crispin, mine's the same (LC5). I thought the H/N/L lever was exclusive to the auto box but it must be the preserve of LC4 and 5 as they have the TC and related electrickery and, in theory, don't need the other style 'HL' lever.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:58    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Crispin
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

ah, so it's a varient thing then.

So if we could find a LC3 breaking, we could use the rear diff (probably be the whole axle?) as it's all electrical then.


Wonder when Gary is putting his rear locker in? Gary?  Wink
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garystockton
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Landcrusher wrote:
LC3 came with a rear locker. Electric. Same as the 90 Colorado did. Idea is that if you have tracky control, you don't need a locker - and if you did, it would make life difficult for the reverse ABS computer I guess.


What, prexactly, is a reverse ABS computer?  Sorry - being a bit doff this morning, obviously!   Wink  

I was under the impression I could swap out my LSD at the rear for the electrically locked version I've got sitting in my garage (and am busy trying to find a wiring loom part number for  Shocked ).  I would have thought that with the locker engaged, the A-TRC II bits wouldn't do anything, as no slip / spin would be detected?  Or am I missing something fundamental?

As for the roof bars, I have a pair of Thule Aero cross-bars I had on my Volvo V70, and they fit fine, and work fine too - carried the roof tent easily, and supported the tent and me 'n SWMBO at Lincomb easily too.  So pretty strong, I'd say!

The stubby lever on the LC4 & 5 only goes HNL becasue of the electrically locked centre diff (same as on the 100 and later 80's I think).  The LL, L, N, HL, H setting is for the manually locking centre diff, AFAIK, so Low Locked, Low, Neutral, High Locked, High.  Not sure it has all those combinations, though  Laughing

Enjoy the vehicle - they're fun and capable.
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reverse ABS - err Traction control?

Dunno about the ATRAC Gary. I just wondered if it was connected to the ASC device that we had issues with on my road (remember?) so if it detected slide, it might try and brake one wheel that was locked to the other wheel which would not make life difficult but might show up as a fault. Would you look to disable all clever functions when off road? It would be advantageous to the have ATRAC on the front wheels, it would be like my front diff lock. But you don't want to be fighting brakes on the rear wheels do you.

We've still to work out whether the rear diff casing has the right profile to be able to accept the front diff housing with the locker in it. My bet is that it will be, but that is a fundamental part of the project - yes? In all, I think that an ARB air locker would be easier. But you got the diff and it just might work. There is a 4x4 control ECU that fires the motor etc but I think Jon is suggesting that some of this can be bypassed quite easliy.

C
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Nuclear Chicken
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some, if not all, of the ATRAC is disabled when CDL is engaged. No other way of manually disabling that I am aware of.
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garystockton
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm...

Good reading here:

Understanding & Using ATRAC II+

I'm hoping that the ECU is smart enough to work like this:

1. Open diff - ATRAC works as designed, i.e. brakes kick in to stop the spinning whel and trfr power to wheel with traction
2. Locked rear diff - ATRAC works as deisgned, but ignores the rear as no slip / spin is detected, and only worries about the front.

With a bit of luck, and hard work, Father Christmas will combine with the birthday fairy next year to deliver an ARB l;ocker for the front, making ATRAC superfluous to an extent.

However, I'll eave everything in place, becuase the VSC and ATRAC stuff combines really well, especially in the current slippy conditions where you don't want to lock any diffs on the open road, but need controlled traction ...

Guess I need some input from the doctor on this, because he's added in the air-lockers and kept the 100's ATRAC, AFAIK.  If it isn't going to work, I'll have a spare diff for sale!

From what I've seen with the Mk 1 eyeball measuring device and ToyoDIY piccies, it seems the housing will fit OK.  Wink

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wildsmith
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 13:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have anything hooked up to disable ATRAC when the ARB's are locked on my 100 and it doesn't seem to be a problem but with all 4 wheels locked to the same speed you wouldn't really expect the ATRAC to feel the need to kick in would you. ATRAC seems great for crossing areas that have intermitant traction where braking one or 2 wheels while the others push it along works because those remaining wheels have enough traction but not so good for places where all 4 wheels are struggling to find grip at the same time which is what lockers are then good for.

ARB's are generally stronger than OEM but there are some down sides to the ARB's like oil seals that need a diff removal and strip down to replace when they wear out and no positive indication of engagement available to the driver and cost several times more than Gary got his e-locker for!

You won't know for sure what's going to need doing to make that e-locker fit until your current one is out Gary but worst case should be cutting a slot down the side of the casing to clearance the locking mechanism and putting 2 new stud holes in for the long studs on that side. You could by a gasket for yours and offer it up to the e-locker diff to see how it looks and that would give some idea before pulling everything apart. For the wiring I'd just get the diff end of the harness from someone like Stef (I'm assuming same plug as an 80, could be wrong) and make up the rest yourself as the 'ECU' is just one or two relays powered via the position sensor in the actuator.
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garystockton
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 14:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moving this to a new thread ...
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