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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 13:27 Post subject: Replacing a Clutch: |
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I'm sure many of you will have done this many times, as I have, but for those that haven't - this is what it looks like.
The gearbox and old clutch will have been removed (I have covered that elsewhere).
Clean up the flywheel and, if necessary, replace the spigot bearing (also covered elsewhere).
I clean the flywheel with a cup brush on an Angle Grinder, when wash it down with Meths and a clean rag. Meths removes any oil and then evaporates without leaving a residue.
I also clean the new Clutch Pressure Plate with Meths - just to be sure.
first job - Make sure that the clutch driven plate you have actually fits your gearbox input shaft
It sounds obvious, but I once spent two or three hours trying to get the motor back into my Land Rover. I tried re-aligning the new clutch and everything. Eventually I took the new driven plate out and tried it on the input shaft . . I had been sent the wrong clutch
You will need some form of Clutch Alignment Tool. A typical commercial one looks like this. It has a range of inserts that fit the spigot bearing (top row) and a second range of adaptors that fit the clutch centre.
Pick an adaptor that best fits the clutch centre - I use masking tape to ensure a good sliding fit.
Note: The clutch driven plate has springs that protrude more on one side than the other. On the 5VZ-FE engine the springs face the motor, on all the others (in the 90 range) they face the gearbox.
Similarly, pick an adaptor that fits the spigot bearing. I happen to have an old bearing to hand, but usually they have to be tried in the bearing fitted in the rear of the crankshaft/flywheel.
Next, you will need three hands (only joking). The driven plate is held against the flywheel, located by the centring tool and the pressure/cover plate is placed over it and aligned with the three locating pegs and six bolt holes.
now you encounter the next problem. The new cover plate won't go close enough the the flywheel to allow the six short set screws to engage their threads
For this you will need three 8mm x 25mm set screws. I used stainless with stainless washers.
The difference in length is quite marked.
Use one long screw per segment and pull the cover plate down evenly until the three locating pegs are properly centered and the depth all round is even. Just tighten enough to grip the driven plate and no more.
Now back off the three set screws evenly until you can just move the driven plate behind the cover plate. We now have to align the driven plate properly.
Some people align the driven plate to the centre of the pressure plate by eye. I have done that successfully but I've also had a couple of failures which is anoying when you find the gearbox won't locate. I now check the alignment with dividers, taking two different measurements around the pressure plate.
When you're happy with the alignment, tighten the three long screws evenly until the cover plate is tight enough for the normal short screws to be used in the three vacant holes. Take up the load with the short screws, remove the long screws and put the remaining three short screws in. Obvious really
now tighten the six screws diagonally a bit at a time until they all start to tighten, then torque them to 14Lbs/ft.
Finally, remove the alignment tool and you are now ready to replace the gearbox.
I haven't put any lubricant on the clutch centre splines at this stage, I'll do that when the gearbox is about to go back.
This is probably old hat to a lot of people, but hopefully it will be of use to someone.
Bob.
Last edited by BobMurphy on Fri Feb 12, 2010 23:56; edited 1 time in total |
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Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 13:27 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Desperatezulu Lifetime member
Joined: 29 Mar 2008 Posts: 483 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 14:23 Post subject: |
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Fantastic post, Bob - I wish you had bought an 80 instead of a 90
I strongly second the motion posted on one of your other threads that these threads should be "stickied".
Cheers, _________________ Andrew
'98 LC80 4.2TD VX 24v |
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Crispin *****
Joined: 09 Jun 2009 Posts: 685 Location: Welham Green, Hertfordshire, England
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Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 15:23 Post subject: |
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If you ever want to start a series on the 120, I have a donor vehicle
Nice pics and nice explanations. Thanks.
Agree with DZ - Sticky. _________________ Cheers,
Crispin
Have Snorkel, Will Swim |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 23:59 Post subject: |
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Desperatezulu wrote: |
Fantastic post, Bob - I wish you had bought an 80 instead of a 90
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Actually, I really fancy a 4.2 litre 80
But I guess I'll have to make do with what I've got.
Bob. |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 18:44 Post subject: |
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Oh Dear . . How are the mighty fallen
Having put the transmission back I found that there was very little feel to the new clutch. At first I thought it would settle down when everything was running - but it hasn't.
Looking at my pictures again I can see that there is little or no clearance around the pressure plate 'fingers' and a call to Milners confirmed the worst.
Toyota used a variety of different flywheels and its not possible to determine which you've got from the Chassis No. I have the wrong clutch
So they are sending me the correct one and I am taking it all apart again.
At least its all clean and I shouldn't have any surprises this time
Its just as well I'm retired; although SWMBO is in Hospital for a knee replacement job at the moment so I won't have much free time for the next three months. I guess I'll just have to work nights.
Bob. |
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Vagabond ****
Joined: 03 Dec 2004 Posts: 455 Location: Watford, HERTS
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Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 21:16 Post subject: |
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Sorry to hear that Bob, how *are* you supposed to know what is the right clutch then?
If you're working outside, at least the weather seems to be warming up a bit.
Wishing your wife a speedy recovery. |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:21 Post subject: |
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Vagabond wrote: |
Sorry to hear that Bob, how *are* you supposed to know what is the right clutch then?
If you're working outside, at least the weather seems to be warming up a bit.
Wishing your wife a speedy recovery. |
Thanks for the good wishes, I expect her to be home on Friday or Saturday. I am looking for my Chauffeur's hat.
Milners asked me if the flywheel face was flat (apart from the recessed centre where it bolts to the crankshaft). Mine is flat all the way to the perimiter.
Apparently the 'standard' flywheel has a recessed contact area and a raised outer edge.
You won't know what you've got until you take the old clutch out.
There is a warning on Milner's site about Imports requiring a different clutch, but mine is a UK Spec car so I didn't suspect anything.
What we need is for someone with the normal flywheel to post a picture for comparison.
Bob. |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 23:55 Post subject: |
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I now have the replacement clutch installed and it appears to work (I haven't run the car yet as the dash has been removed).
To follow on from the previous post - My flywheel is flat across the contact area, which is apparantly not the norm for a UK spec 1KZ-Te motor.
Here we have the two clutches for comparison - that on the left works with the 'flat' flywheel, that on the right is the standard UK spec version.
The same two 'flipped'. The most obvious difference is that the standard clutch cover has cut-outs on the side.
A close-up of the cut-outs when compared with the non-standard cover.
The driven plates are the same for both.
And finally, with the replacement clutch installed I now have some clearance for the clutch release 'fingers'. I feels normal as well
I must be getting better at this as it only took me 15 mins to install the gearbox after replacing the clutch again. Practice makes perfect - but I'd have preferred to have only done the job once
If anyone has a picture of a non-flat flywheel - could we see it please. That would just complete this little learning exercise.
Bob. |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 16:27 Post subject: |
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I finally had the truck running today and the clutch is fine
It even had enough grip to free the siezed brakes (does it ever end ).
Bob. |
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Daniel911 **
Joined: 04 Oct 2009 Posts: 92 Location: London
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Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:28 Post subject: |
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Bob
Need your help.
Did you replace it with a standard clutch?
What do you think of the Safari clutch or a heavy duty clutch? |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 23:48 Post subject: |
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Daniel911 wrote: |
Bob
Need your help.
Did you replace it with a standard clutch?
What do you think of the Safari clutch or a heavy duty clutch? |
Daniel,
I got what I think are standard clutches from Milners.
The normal one for my UK spec 95 didn't fit because I have one of the variations of flywheel on my 1KZ-TE motor.
I didn't do any research on heavy-duty clutches as I don't intentionally get into difficulties with a heavy towing load, though I have been known to pull lorries out of boggy fields .
Even when towing a couple of horses across wet fields I very rarely have to slip the clutch. I just select a low gear (Low Ratio if appropriate) and let it trundle slowly out.
What are you using your car for that you need a heavy duty clutch
Bob. |
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Daniel911 **
Joined: 04 Oct 2009 Posts: 92 Location: London
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Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 16:39 Post subject: |
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I'm planning a trip back to Cape Town from the Big old Ben. And do not want te get stuck with a clutch on the road. |
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johnnyh *
Joined: 17 Jan 2006 Posts: 15 Location: glos.
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Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 20:31 Post subject: |
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first of all apologies for resurrecting this thread but it is on the exact same subject so i thought i wouldn't make sense to start a new one.
i've just removed the gearbox and clutch on my 90. it's a uk spec 1kz-te from 1998.
just as an aside, i had a 'mare getting the box out for two reasons: there is a series of cable attachments across the top of the box and they are unbelievably awkward and also i had to loosen the body/chassis bolts and lift the body up by 20mm or so to get the thing to clear. in hindsight i should have let the box hang to bring the engine downwards at the rear on it's mountings before i removed all the bolts. i couldn't get the engine to twist enough with a jack at the front and at that point the box was already 30mm off the engine so i couldn't use it's weight to achieved what i needed.
anyway, enough moaning . what i want to ask about is that my old clutch appears to be like your (BobMurphy's) first new clutch, the one that was wrong. the new one i have been supplied seems like your second new one. the flywheel is flat across it's outer area so i guess that means i need the same clutch as you but as i said the one i've just removed is like the wrong one.
if i place the new friction plate on the pressure plate i can see that it would take a lot of bolt to bring the friction plate flush, which of course it would have to be and that makes me think it's supposed to go in a recess.
i don't suppose Bob you have the part numbers for your clutch kicking around anymore? _________________ 1998 kdj 90 |
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johnnyh *
Joined: 17 Jan 2006 Posts: 15 Location: glos.
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Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 20:35 Post subject: |
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i forgot to say 'well done' for such a good series of explanations and photos! _________________ 1998 kdj 90 |
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BobMurphy Lifetime member
Joined: 01 Aug 2008 Posts: 1739 Location: Kirkliston, Scotland
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Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:33 Post subject: |
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johnnyh wrote: |
first of all apologies for resurrecting this thread but it is on the exact same subject so i thought i wouldn't make sense to start a new one.
i don't suppose Bob you have the part numbers for your clutch kicking around anymore? |
Johnny,
No need to apologise - it helps to keep the problem records together .
The Milner "Clutch Kits" that I received in Feb/Mar 2010 had the following Milner part nos:
000123 Clutch Kit £180.00 (The wrong one for my car which has the flat flywheel).
004106 Clutch Kit £120.00 (The correct one).
Milners arranged for the wrong one to be collected and re-funded the price difference.
I had provided them with details of the car - Type, year, VIN and so on - it didn't help .
When removing the gearbox, I found it best to drop the exhaust header pipe to let the motor rock on its mountings and also I undid the front Anti-Roll Bar and swung it down as it can obstruct the lower part of the bell housing.
The gearbox has to be rotated about 90 degrees anti-clockwise to free it.
Not good when you're lying on your back removing it on your own.
Best of luck.
Bob. |
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