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Replacing a Propshaft Universal Joint:

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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 0:38    Post subject: Replacing a Propshaft Universal Joint: Reply with quote

Once again this may well be a bit of a 'yawn' for some, but I did it and took pictures, so here goes.

While the two propshafts are on the bench I gave them a good looking over. The rear-most UJ (one nearest the rear diff) was very loose and rattly, although I couldn't detect any play in it. The rest were all firm and smooth so for the sake of 10.00 I decided to change it.

The Toyota Universal Joints (also known as Hardy-Spicer Joints) are different to others I have see in that the circlips that locate the bearing caps fit those bearing caps on the inner face of the yokes. Others I have done have the circlips on the outer edge of the bearings, located within the yokes.

First job is therefore to remove the four circlips. Note that I have centre-punched the two yokes so that they can be replaced in the same alignment - just in case this affects the propshaft balance.







Here, one circlip has been removed and is shown for reference, one is half way out.


I use a screwdriver to prise the circlip free ( actually, I used a larger screwdriver, but this makes for a better picture  Laughing ).







Having removed all four circlips, the next task is to loosen the bearing caps in the yokes. I had soaked mine in release oil for a couple of days and then I had to knock opposing pairs in and out to get the caps to slide relatively easily.

Don't tickle them with 20 Oz hammers, give them a firm blow with a heavy hammer - but don't welly it, it will come free with patience and lots of oil.

I use a 2.5Lb Club Hammer and a large drift.







Here, you can see that one bearing cap has been shifted inwards, meaning that its opposite number has had to move outwards.







And here is the oposing bearing cap protruding. The yoke isn't machined tightly to the outer edge, so the bearing cap will be loose when the spider is hard against the inner face of the yoke.







Then just remove the cap, leaving the end of the spider loose. Hmmmm some rust in the grease there  Wink







Next, just knock the end of the spider inwards to drive the opposite bearing cap out and remove it.







With both caps removed, the spider can be removed from the yoke. This leaves the other pair of bearing caps to be removed in the same manner.







With everything removed, you will have a collection of parts like this. I also removed the grease nipple from the slip joint as I was resting the grease nipple castings on the jaws of a large bench vice in order to give clearance when removing the bearing caps. I didn't want to risk damaging the nipple.







With the bearing housings in the two yokes cleaned up and lightly oiled, remove an opposing pair of bearing caps from the new spider, insert the spider into one yoke (remembering to face the grease nipple forwards) and then push the caps in over the spider. Do this carefully by hand for, if you dislodge any of the needle rollers in the caps you will have a problem (i.e. don't hit it yet !).

Once the caps have been properly located on the spider, they can be pressed or driven home.

The new circlips are then clicked into place. I did mine by hand - no tools required.







When all four bearings have been located it will look like this. It helps if the grease nipple faces forwards or else access can be difficult.







That's the last of the current crop of small jobs, now I have to strip the Transfer Box (I can't put it off any longer   Shocked   ).  


I may be gone for some time . . . . . .


Bob.
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Bullwire
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 0:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic series of Pics, I doff my hat to you Sir.
The pictorial guide makes it very clear what has to be done.
Good luck with the Transfer box... Very Happy
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seph234
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes very good this is on my list of jobs.

Can i ask where you got your uj from?

Joe
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

seph234 wrote:
Yes very good this is on my list of jobs.

Can i ask where you got your uj from?

Joe



Joe,

I got the UJ from Milners - along with a host of other parts.

Part No. 000109. 10.00 + VAT (+ carriage, which covered all the items).


Bob.
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 19:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, it may be that Carl has been listening. That UJ looks different. The originals were very difficult if not impossible to grease. I don't recall them having that diagonal nipple. I have one in the truck spares box that I didn't fit. I shall investigate and report back.

Chris
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 23:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

Landcrusher wrote:
Hmm, it may be that Carl has been listening. That UJ looks different. The originals were very difficult if not impossible to grease. I don't recall them having that diagonal nipple. I have one in the truck spares box that I didn't fit. I shall investigate and report back.

Chris



The new UJ comes in a sealed bag with a loose nipple. I meant to say - screw the nipple into the UJ before you do anything else as it will be difficult to get a 7mm socket on it when its fitted.

I managed to grease it after fitting but it was on the bench and I had plenty of articulation. I don't know what its like when the propshaft is installed.

Been there, lying under the car with one rear wheel jacked up turning the propshaft and trying to get the grease gun to connect properly  Laughing


Bob.
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regthing
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 10:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top man!

This could fix my vibration at speed problem Very Happy
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darianva
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Regthing,
Did this resolve your issue?
I know you replied to my recent thread so just curious if the UJ's fixed your vibrations?

thanks
Darian
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regthing
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

It did indeed. Once I checked properly it was clear that the UJ was worn. I've got another one on the way out and I'm getting a humming at the moment. I just need to find the time to do it.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 19:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

that is fabulous news! many thanks!
I would be quite conident that my issue matches that of all the humming = replace UJ's!
Bob has replied with great details and technical diagrams and a few other things to check.

Would someone with good DIY skills and most tools be able to accomplish the change?
I can order the UJ's from Toyota in advance, or is it just worth getting a mechanic to do it?

thanks
darian
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J66P
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 20:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

cracking write up Bob
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 20:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

agreed, very thorough!
thankyou!
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 22:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

darianva wrote:
 Would someone with good DIY skills and most tools be able to accomplish the change?
I can order the UJ's from Toyota in advance, or is it just worth getting a mechanic to do it?


If you have the tools, just go and do it - its not difficult provided you soak the bearing caps in penetrating oil before you start.

The most difficult job is probably undoing the propshaft flanges as they can be tight and you can't get a socket on them - good quality ring spanner and maybe an extension tube required  Laughing .

While the propshaft is off, remove the slip joint grease nipple and compress the joint. A lot of old grease will come out. When the UJs have been replaced, re-fit the propshaft before re-fitting the slip joint grease nipple, then give it a couple of shots of grease.

If the Slip Joint is packed tight it can cause a hard knock when the suspension moves.


Bob.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 16:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're a legend Bob, I have a clunk clanking noise and was going to put the UJ's on my to look list this weekend, I now know how to replace them if it is this.

cheers mate
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faniemalherbe
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 18:19    Post subject: UJ's Reply with quote

What more can be said... maybe Cheers to that!!! I'm still on that list for the "Bob Murphy Landcruiser Service Manual" when it get's published....

Bob do you know if the breather valve's on a '02 D4D manual gearbox and transfer box can be removed. I've extended the rear- and front diff breathers this weekend, but the two breathers on the gearbox and transfer box (feeling by hand) do not feel like they can be removed... Any ideas?

Thanks,
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