Milner Off-Road

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Replacing a Propshaft Universal Joint:

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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 13:11    Post subject: Re: UJ's Reply with quote

faniemalherbe wrote:
Bob do you know if the breather valve's on a '02 D4D manual gearbox and transfer box can be removed. I've extended the rear- and front diff breathers this weekend, but the two breathers on the gearbox and transfer box (feeling by hand) do not feel like they can be removed... Any ideas?


I'm afraid I have no experience of the D4D-engined Colorados.

However, I suspect the gearboxes and Transfer Boxes are the same or similar to those on the earlier models.

Here are some photos and thoughts that might help. If the boxes turn out to be different I'm afraid its back to square-1  Laughing

The manual gearbox on my '98 KZJ95 appears to have three breathers, a tube exiting from the O/S, a valve sitting in the gear lever turret and a second valve adjacent to the turret on the N/S.

See here:








The valves are shown as separate items on the Parts diagrams - Part No. 36117B (90930-03075) "Plug, Breather (for Transfer Adapter)".

I guess, therefore, that they can be unscrewed and replaced with a BSP fitting. I don't know which thread size it is though.

The vent pipe appears on the diagram as Part No. 36117L (90441-05001) "Tube (for Transfer Adapter)".

It isnt screwed-in, but a longer tube can be fitted to it.


The Transfer Box has a vent pipe mounted in the Transfer Lever Turret - It can be seen here from the underside of the turret.





Just while I'm here  .  .  .  The Transfer Box for a Manual Gearbox has its selector fork connections inside the Transfer Box, so the Transfer Lever Turret is mounted on the Transfer Box - here:





If others watching have an Auto Box, the Transfer Box will have the selector fork connections on the outside of the Transfer Box and the Transfer Lever Turret will be mounted on the Transfer Adaptor at the back of the gearbox.

There is a blanking plate on the Transfer Box - and this also has the breather pipe fitting.





There is what appears to be a 'blanked-off' breather pipe on the side of the Transfer Box - shown here:





There is no obvious sign of theis breather on the inside, so I guess it connects to the 'Anulus' of the High/low ratio epicyclic gear cluster. It seems to be redundant, anyhow.






Hopefully this will be of some use to you  Confused


Bob.
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regthing
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 12:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

UJ number 2 replaced at the weekend. Got it down to a fine art now.

Cheers again Bob  salute
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'98 Colorado KZJ95 1KZTE
General Grabber AT2s, Ironman Suspension and working my way round the worn bits!
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Mighty Landcruiser
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 23:54    Post subject: Great post re changine the hardy splicers!! Reply with quote

This is a 1st for me, registering on a forum for anything!  I use a Landcruser every day for general driving to heavy towing etc and love them.  On my 2nd one now and had a bit of a rattle in her from about 65 MPH for this past week and getting worse even at lower speeds (from about 50MPH).  Pulled her over the pit tonight an noticed its a wee bit of lift in the rear hardly splicer of ahaft to the back axle, probably the one you've just posted about.  Have changed them before but bought it from Toyota direct and was bit pricey, any pointers as to where could get the kit a lot cheaper?  The post mentioned spending a tenner?  Very reasonable!!  Just pulled the rear shaft out of her and driving her front wheel drive only with the diff lock on until get parts sourced and fitted.  
Also I noticed your mention of getting into the transfer box.  if need any advise re that, I'd same job to do about 5000 miles ago, the bottom seal went in mine, lost all the diff oil and the transfer chain, sprockets etc must have been slightly worn as under heavy loading was skipping the chain.  She got complete new parts and re built, this time with fully synthetic oil again in all the diffs and gear box.  Spent a grand on parts and tried to reduce costs by doing the labour myself.
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 10:01    Post subject: Re: Great post re changine the hardy splicers!! Reply with quote

Mighty Landcruiser wrote:
Have changed them before but bought it from Toyota direct and was bit pricey, any pointers as to where could get the kit a lot cheaper?  The post mentioned spending a tenner?  Very reasonable!!  
Also I noticed your mention of getting into the transfer box.  if need any advise re that, I'd same job to do about 5000 miles ago.


Hi there, Welcome to the site.

The 'UJs' I bought came from Milner Off Road . Have a look here.

They are still £10.00 + VAT (my original post was in Feb 2010  Wink ).

I have rebuilt a couple of Transfer Boxes since then, not too difficult if you take your time and keep everything spotless.

There if plenty of info on this site but just post up a question if you need any pointers.

Enjoy the Cruiser  Laughing .

Bob.
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Mighty Landcruiser
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 12:47    Post subject: Great stuff Bob!! Reply with quote

Thanks for quick advise!  Before had checked my E-mail had phoned and ordered a part from Totota direct and was costing £73+VAT!!  Once got your reply cancelled the Toyota order and ordered from Milner off road, some difference in price!!   Shocked Very Happy  
Last May needed the same part and only lasted a year whatever was wrong with the part.  Confused  Asked re redress and getting replaced under warrinty but thats a no goer as changed it myself!  I used the red lithium grease, wondered was anything to do with that? Surprised   I normally use the Blue marine high speed grease as reckon it's hard to beat.  Whats your reccomendation re grease to use?  I normally like to give her the best available (as she gives me good service) and grease all the shafts at 5 - 7 000 miles on ave.  Paul
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 18:30    Post subject: Re: Great stuff Bob!! Reply with quote

Mighty Landcruiser wrote:
I used the red lithium grease, wondered was anything to do with that? Surprised   I normally use the Blue marine high speed grease as reckon it's hard to beat.  Whats your reccomendation re grease to use?  Paul


I just use 'cheap & cheerful' Castrol LM, I've never experimented with special greases.

A "Lubricants Expert" will be along shortly  Laughing .

Bob.
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DaveWall
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 22:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all - I have 4 Milner UJs on the shelf if anyone wants them, just pay postage....  1 used the others not even touched

I found that they were impossible to greese once fitted - that nipple in the side just doesn't give you enough space to get the end of the greese gun on without unbolting the Prop Flange....  Bob have you tried yours on the truck yet???

I even tried filing the end of the greese gun to squeeze it in!  

I also found that the cups of the milner joint I had fitted had turned in the yoke (I had marked them) as they were no wear near as tight as the Toyota ones I removed....   I bit the bullet and bought Toyota ones and they were a much better fit and simple to greese..  I agree they are a rip off, but if you cant greese the Milner ones you will be doing it again before long, and they will go when you least want them too
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 0:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveWall wrote:
Bob have you tried yours on the truck yet???


Yes I have - I think I used a small "Rom-Pom" grease gun instead of the normal high pressure gun with the hydraulic jaws.

I agree that they can be tricky.

Bob.
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Mr.B
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 18:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

bob you said your uj didnt show signs of wear when checked before removing, could this cause my banging i having?

also how do you know when theres enough grease in the prop?
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BobMurphy
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 23:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr.B wrote:
bob you said your uj didnt show signs of wear when checked before removing, could this cause my banging i having?

also how do you know when theres enough grease in the prop?


My rear prop's rear UJ was very slack and 'rattly', but didn't have any noticeable radial play. There was rust in the grease when I removed it though.

I think its very unlikely to be causing your 'banging' as that seems to happen when you go over bumps. You would have other issues if your UJ(s) were so worn that the propshaft jumped (I had a UJ on a Morris Marina that had lost all its needle rollers - now that was worn  Laughing ).

Worn UJs and loose propshaft bolts give rise to vibration under power. I've never heard them cause a 'bang'.

When you grease a UJ, it will force old grease out of the rubber seals that surround the arms of the central spider. I just put grease in until I start to see old grease emerge.

Don't over-grease the slip joints on the propshafts though. Eventually they become so packed with grease that they can't compress with the suspension movement and you can feel it jarr.

If you have the propshaft off, remove the slip joint's grease nipple, cover the hole with a rag or kitchen towel and compress the joint fully - old black grease will spurt out.

Then just put the propshaft back, replace the grease nipple and give it two shots of grease. Give it two shots of grease at Service Time.

Repeat every five years  Laughing .
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knicko
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 16:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been suffering the same non-localised vibration under load that others have reported on this forum and having inspected the UJs, it appears there is play in both the UJs on my rear prop. The front prop seems to be fine though.

The UJ on the forward end of the rear prop is visually different to all the others - and it doesn't seem to be available via Roughtrax or Milners, as they state their UJs are not for the 'double' type joints, which I assume is what I am describing at the forward end of the rear prop?

I just rang my local Toyota dealership and they say that the replaceable part (part number 04371) is actually the same for both UJs at front and back of the rear prop. I haven't taken it apart so I can't argue with him, but does that seem correct?

Mr T has also just quoted a price of £94.61 + VAT for each UJ (and yes that is without the prop & yoke, just the bearing insert) !!
I will be keen to pay a lot less than this if possible!
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knicko
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 16:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry - forgot to say mine is a 1998 3.0TD 95 series auto VX

Nick
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DaveWall
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 16:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who makes the Genuine Toyota ones?

I did buy all new Genuine Toyota ones in the end after messing around with cheap ones, just so I could greese them easily...  A good idea would be to try find who makes the Genuine items and see if they sell direct or via another internet outlet... (bit like clutches etc)
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knicko
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 17:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveWall wrote:
Who makes the Genuine Toyota ones?

I did buy all new Genuine Toyota ones in the end after messing around with cheap ones, just so I could greese them easily...  A good idea would be to try find who makes the Genuine items and see if they sell direct or via another internet outlet... (bit like clutches etc)



Good idea Dave, I will try to find out.

Out of interest, if you changed all yours, can you shed any light on whether the centres of the UJs are in fact all the same, despite the different appearance?
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knicko
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 20:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveWall wrote:
Who makes the Genuine Toyota ones?

I did buy all new Genuine Toyota ones in the end after messing around with cheap ones, just so I could greese them easily...  A good idea would be to try find who makes the Genuine items and see if they sell direct or via another internet outlet... (bit like clutches etc)


Looking at Bob's photos earlier in this thread, the UJs he took off were marked 'GMB Japan'. Assuming these were the original ones, I believe they are the manufacturers. It appears that Roughtrax are now selling the GMB UJs (rather than the Toyo units) for just over £15, so I will replace with these.

Having done a bit more research, the 'double UJ' that I previously referred to is a Cardan joint and one difference to the other UJs is that the UJ retaining clips are on the external face of the bearing caps rather than a C clip around the internal shoulder of the caps. As Toyota were adamant that the replacement part number was the same, I wonder whether the UJs in the Cardan joint are in fact the same and perhaps the yoke of the Cardan joint is just slightly larger so that there is room to accommodate the retaining clip on top of the cap (leaving the groove on the shoulder of the cap unused)?

Problem is, I won't know the answer until I have dismantled my UJs but I want to have the correct replacement parts in advance. It appears that the Cardan joint has another section in between its two UJs, which is a ball joint of sorts. I'm hoping this will not need replacing, as I'm sure they're only likely to be available from Toyota (and will no doubt cost a pretty penny).

I would be interested to know if anyone has experience of this.
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