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ignat
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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 18:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigSi wrote:
I went to a 4x4 garage today, but they weren’t interested in doing the work. Said that the tolerance were to high with a gasket change, and too labour intensive?


WHAT RECESSION!?  Rolling Eyes  Rolling Eyes

I'd be interested to know where you got your replacement head and gasket etc from.  

I got a replacement head kit from Roughtrax.  It was a pattern head but everything else was geniune Toyota.  i.e stretch bolts , gasket & cam belt.

Nothing was ever said to me to return to re-torque the bolts.  wonder if it applies to these.
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African Drifter
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Location: London

PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 2:49    Post subject: Ouch!! Reply with quote

BigSi

Ouch! So sorry to hear the bad news that the warranty ran out. Yes, the tolerance is high and very labour intensive and sometimes pricey too. Feel for you mate,
had the same problem with one of my BJ/FJ 40's back in Africa, its not a nice feeling... I know.

I really hope all works out fine for you at the end and the price does not kill your bank balance.
Thinking of you and hope you will be on the road soon.

African Drifter
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Roger Fairclough
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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 12:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a specific order in which the bolts are removed.

The text reads:-

"Uniformly loosen and remove the 18 cylinder head bolts in several passes in the sequence shown".

Looking at the engine from the front, the bolts on your left are

1 7 9 15 17 14 12 6 and 4

and on the right

3 5 11 13 18 16 10 8 2.

Head bolts are checked by measuring the dia. of the stem, over any elongated section of the thread.

Standard outer dia. 11.8-12.0 mm

Minimum    "      "    11.6 mm.

Replace if below minimum.

There are 5 types of head gasket used at the works but only 3 are available as spares. It's all about piston protrusion requires this thickness of gasket.

The head bolts are tightened in 3 passes. Bolts are oiled on threads and under the head (of the bolt).

First pass is at 29 ft-lbf

Second pass plus 90 degrees

Third pass  plus 90 degrees.

Order of tightening

18 12 10 4 2 5 7 13 15

and

16 14 8 6 1 3 9 11 17.

No mention of needing to check settings after a certain mileage.

All info refers to 1KZ-T engine.

Roger
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African Drifter
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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 12:53    Post subject: Valuable info Reply with quote

Hi Roger.

Thank you for the 'valuable' info!
Great to know a second appointment for a head re torque is no longer needed. My KZJ78 has the same 1KZ-T engine.
A copy of this in the log book might come in handy one day, Thanks again!

Hope BigSi is going to be 'ok'

African Drifter
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Roger Fairclough
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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 14:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice to know the info. could be of use.

As an extra, the head gasket thickness is based on the protrusion of the piston above the face of the block.

Piston protrusion 0.08 - 0.12mm use gasket "1"---installed gasket thickness = 0.8 - 0.9mm

   "           "        0.13 - 0.22mm  "       "      "3"--      "          "            "       = 0.9 - 1.0mm

   "           "        0.23 - 0.33mm  "       "      "5"--       "         "            "       =1.0 - 1.1mm

The numbers relate to the number of small holes punched into the corner of the gasket.

Roger
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BigSi
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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 17:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went to my usual garage today, who luckily said that they could book the vehicle in next Monday for a look. So hopefully next week, I’ll have a better idea of what the problem is.  Very Happy

Should I start finding a buyer for my Arm and Leg?  Laughing
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African Drifter
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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 22:51    Post subject: Add on... Reply with quote

Good evening Roger

Thanks for the additional info (Will ad it with the other).
Was about to ask you earlier if you have more info... and 'presto'!!!

You're tops!!

African Drifter
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African Drifter
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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 23:06    Post subject: Thats good news Reply with quote

Good evening BigSi

Glad they can take you in and maybe, just maybe its not as bad as we fall fear!
Anyway... we are all thinking of you and for all we know there might be a couple of old/ new (doesn't really matter which) Landy's and Pajero's
laying around in the neighbors back yard that we can flog off to cover costs... hie hie ha ha! (joke). We definitely don't want for you to loose an arm
nor a leg (you need the one to drive your cruiser and we need the other to pull once in a while).

Holding thumbs for Monday.
Sure its going to be fine, hang in there buddy!!

African Drifter
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lucky
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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 23:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigSi.

Very important thing on the head. NEW BOLTS. Forget the check for tolerance, the head bolts are stretch bolts and to be honest for the price of a new set (however they aren't cheap) it isn't worth it.

As Roger said, the threads MUST be oiled before installation (and the threaded holes in the block must also be squeaky clean). However when I say oiled, they must have a smear of oil on only and not like some mechanics will do, just dip the bolt in oil and install it straight away. The bolt holes are not much longer than required and it is quite possible for there to be too much oil in it which acts as a buffer in the bottom of the hole and prevents you torquing it correctly. The torqueplus two extra turns should torque the bolt against the head, not against the bottom of the hole.

The tightening sequence is of utmost importance however one extra thing.

....Tighten the bolts by finger turns (not with a spanner or socket) until the bolt meets the head. if you can't do that, take off the head again and clean the threads and hole. and then put the head back on again. It is worth putting all the bolts in the holes and tightening them all by hand up to the end of the thread before removing them and then putting the head on.

On this engine it is very important that the head goes on right - it can't be almost right, it has to be exactly right. The head must be flat, the bolts must be new and the gasket must be the correct thickness. Anything other than absolutely right is a recipe for another blown gasket, a cracked head or worse. Done right, the head and gasket will hold up for years, done wrong you will be doing it again and not that long in time either.
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African Drifter
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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 1:13    Post subject: From us all Reply with quote

Hi Andy.

I think I say this on behalf of a lot of guys out there.... 'Thank You'!

Info like this is much needed and very important when we deal with a situation like this. Not everybody is aware how the procedure should go and unfortunately
most of us has to deal with it sooner or later.  Good to make a note of this.

Nice to belong to a great club with great guys, isn't it folks?
Thanks again.

African Drifter
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BigSi
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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 17:56    Post subject: Re: From us all Reply with quote

African Drifter wrote:
Nice to belong to a great club with great guys, isn't it folks?


I second that!!!!! 3some 3some
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BigSi
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 18:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all.

Just got back from the garage, and apparently they think that the problem is with the thermostat and not the head gasket! They said that they did a test to check for air in the water, and it came back all clear. They should be fitting the part in the next few days and taking for a test drive to see what happens.

They did notice the water bubbling in the heater matrix (have heard that a few times), so they said they would drain the system as it could be an air blockage.

So hopefully it will only cost me a finger & thumb!

I will keep you all posted. thumbleft
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ignat
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 22:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good stuff!   Very Happy
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regthing
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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 12:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

God bless honest and decent garages! Make sure we know their name. Smile
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seph234
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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 19:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

I keep my fingers crossed for you.

Joe
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