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Juddian
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Joined: 31 Jan 2015
Posts: 374
Location: Homeboy

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2021 8:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Wooly.

Between 105/108k if my memory serves.
I first took the unit round to the local sparky thinking he'd rebuild it with new parts as necessary, he soon noticed (i hadn't) a hairline crack in the main casting, that wasn't going to self mend hence no rebuild.
Whether that crack had anything to do with the failure i don't know, gut feeling is not.

Two most awkward parts of the job, lining the through bolts back up when offering the new alternator up...i used a handy little mirror on a stick to get a view through the bolt holes to get things lined up, you're trying to hold that heavy alternator in place and get a long bolt to pass through, its tiring...only use that stick mirror once in a blue moon but when that moon happens its invaluable.

The other awkward thing was finding the ideal combination of socket extensions and leverage to compress the auxilliary belt constant tensioner, too long and other parts get in the way when levering, too short and unless you're seriously strong you can't compress the spring....however i have the full set of Romainian made underbody plates fitted which i didn't rermove, whether removing the sump guard would make life easier i don't know.

I changed the cambelt previously and the auxilliray belt at the same time, it seemed easier to compress the auxilliary belt tensioner from above so might be worth experimenting that way and slipping the belt off from above, but without doubt its much easier going in from behind the removed front wheel for alternator replacement, for one thing from the splash guard gap to the rear of the wheelarch you can see and access the alternator connector plug easily, that would not be easy by feel alone from above.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2021 8:01    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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wooly0000
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Joined: 01 Sep 2009
Posts: 490
Location: wigan

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2021 19:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank Judian your a star! me thinks i will take it me local auto electrician when the time is right, they did the replacement wiring on me back lights, this weekend I will try and fix the front fog light, the lens has misted and i had a look at youtube it seems straight forward to fix  Sad
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2021 20:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Woolly, Karl has had his out, so hopefully he will be along to give you some guidance.
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wooly0000
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Joined: 01 Sep 2009
Posts: 490
Location: wigan

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2021 20:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Much appreciated TM
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 318
Location: North West

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2021 23:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those fog lights were bloody awkward for me - maybe yours will be easier!

Its best if you take off the little plastic panel next to them, so you can get access through that to the 'clip' that holds them in place.  I say clip, its just a bit of the bumper plastic with a hole that locks over a knob on the fog light that holds it into place.  To get the light out, you have to lever the plastic so that its free of the knob, then the light will pull out to the front.  You can use a flat blade screwdriver, or a L shaped pry tool to lever the plastic.

So the side of the light towards the middle of the bumper are held in by that clip.  The other side 'hooks' on and will unlock once you release the clip side.  

You're better off taking the bulbs out first before you start to get the light units out - you can get the best access to those from underneath.

Good luck!
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wooly0000
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Joined: 01 Sep 2009
Posts: 490
Location: wigan

PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2021 8:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that Karl looks like a fiddley job, will follow your advice once again many thanks
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2021 21:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for coming back Wooly, a lot don't bother once they've got their info. Feedback's good for everyone with problems and solutions
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 8:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is true Traction man , those who do not give any reply so that at least if it has not solved their problem you can go to the next step in solving their problem some times  makes me wonder is it worth the bother helping them .
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Tractionman
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 11:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very true Tony, I've had those thoughts many times, but if we all went that way, there would no no tlocuk. All questions, no answers.
Those not helping out with their feedback/comments, don't help anyone else with the same sort of problem in future, and we are all glad of help from time to time. Fortunately, not so many of them, so we just carry on doing the best we can with all others helping everyone else, hoping we get it in return when needed.
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 11:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes your right Traction man
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karl2000
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Joined: 25 Apr 2021
Posts: 318
Location: North West

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 12:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some of these threads might turn up in ten years when someone else is searching for a solution.  I've lost count of the number of times I've had help from a thread somewhere that's ancient, just because someone took the time to reply and put the solution at the end!
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timbo
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Joined: 15 Apr 2008
Posts: 84
Location: Dorset

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 17:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys, sorry for the delay in getting back, bad case of gastroenteritis 🤢, knocked me for 6!. Anyway to get my thread back on track, definitely not a battery issue, I am currently trying out TonyCY11 suggestion of pumping the priming pump before starting. So, starting takes longer the longer the vehicle is left sitting, once started its fine for the rest of the day. Gave it a pump this morning and got a 2 banana start, which i think is ok, how ever, for the first time ever in its history I got a  CEL, unfortunately my code reader came up with 'linking error'. Car drove fine, stopped and started again CEL gone and has not returned. Will now leave the car a few days and see how many bananas it takes to start with out priming. pottytrain5
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 20:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your 120 was made before 2006 it is likely that a cheap (less than 200 quid) type hand held code reader will not work , if that is the case you will need toyota tecstream available on e bay for around 25 quid . if you are sure the batteries are strong and not past their best , I am wondering if your fuel cap is loose or the rubber seal on the cap worn or hardened with age allowing pressure loss after the car has been stood or if your fuel filler pipe is rusted with tiny holes in that is allowing pressure loss after a few hours of been stood or even the rubber pipe that goes between the filler pipe to the fuel tank is split slightly also that will allow pressure loss after its been stood a while , all those are worth a check . if the pressure loss is more than slight the car might not start at all and if it does it will run badly . if you find out what code the engine threw out will probably be a great help in finding out the problem ,
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timbo
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Joined: 15 Apr 2008
Posts: 84
Location: Dorset

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 20:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi TONYCY11, thanks for the reply, yes its a 2003. I'm a little confused by your reply, it suggests that there has to be pressure in the tank for the car to run, is this correct? what happens when you add fuel in that case? regarding batteries, there is no loss in cranking speed, and once started you could turn off immediately and it would re start fine.
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TONYCY11
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Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 409
Location: CYPRUS

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 21:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as I know if the ECU detects pressure loss as a air leak when the engine has been stopped it gives problems starting ,  a good way to test this is leave your fuel cap off for an hour and try start the car , I have been told it will give a engine code if it starts and can go into limp mode , I have never tested this so its something I will have to try , on a another note just before I changed my batteries when they were nine years old I thought they were OK as they seemed to crank the engine over fine , but sometimes the engine would crank for 5 seconds or more to start in a morning or after work going home and once started the engine ran great , it was only when I changed the batteries that I was surprised how fast the engine turned over and start in 1 or 2 seconds at the most .
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