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90 series buyers guide ?

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rosienoo
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Joined: 14 Nov 2008
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Location: Oxfordshire

PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 19:45    Post subject: 90 series buyers guide ? Reply with quote

Hi

Thinking of buying a Colorado and need some advice please.   I've seen reference to "It is not an issue on the D4D - you should be fine".  What year did the D4D start at?  

Was thinking of getting and R-reg or S-reg but don't want to be stuck with having a new C/H as soon as I buy it, coz I was looking at ones around the 120k mark

Thanks, Rosie
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 20:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Rosie. I had an early (P) which cracked. My current 98 reg seems fine. I asked Toymotaman about this and he said that the IKZ-TE's that cracked were the early ones and that R reg on were fine. It does seem to be the earlier models. D4D from memory came in around 2002, W reg I reckon. Roughly folks - that's not a fact. They're easy to tell apart.

I've had LWB and SWB manual and auto in the 90 series. The LWB is probably a better vehicle - there I said it, but then I only tow a quad bike and I don't want to lug anything but my dog and a load of shooting stuff around. I have two seats only - and an Avensis for the family.

Really anything around the R, S and T mark is getting pretty old now and whilst they can run forever, there are bits and pieces starting to show through here and there. I have asked for a sticky for each model so that we can log regular faults on all vehicles to act as a buying guide to newbies. Your mechanicals are really solid on these, they don't really wear out that easily. Some of the ancillaries need replacing, like radiators and the like. But if you're buying a car for sub £3000 you have to get real. They were £27k new. OK, what would I look for - here we go again. gosh that sticky would be useful. You shouldn't get this on EVERY car Rosie, but best to know what COULD go wrong

Some of these aren't actually visible by the way. But knowledge is everything. I'm sure the team will add

Rear diff loks rot inside and stop working - red light on dash won't go solid when in low ratio. If you're pulling a box, this could be useful in a wet field Toyota £720. Scrappy £300
Cooling system can go, leaking coolant into the autobox. Not terminal, but costly and a right pain if you're not handy. £Don't know
Rust can appear around sunroof or front top of windscreen. Should penetrate but looks untidy £?
Hand brakes (due to bodge maintenance) can be  jiggered. People just wind the fine adjustment up. Look for a hole in the hand brake lever gaiter between the seats where it has been tightened up too much £difficult to say. depends on amount of neglect. Service history should have looked after this
Headlight connectors can become carbonised - sometime due to too higher wattage lamps. Increased resistance leads to dim lights £ couple of quid to fix
Steering rack mountings can get sloppy. When parked turn the steering whilst looking underneath. The rack body should just flex. If it slides back and forth it needs rebushing. £50
Rear light clusters in the bumper collect all the crud and can rot away. £43 per side to replace
Sunroof electrics pack up  - open a window
Rear door hinges can sag. Push a bit harder when you close the door
Center console drinks lid WILL be broken. Live with it. If it's not, first time anyone gets in, they will break it for you.
Air filter lid catches can wear so that lid isn't held down properly. Fix with bungee cord. 80p
Rear slide joint in propshaft can be over greased leading to limited movement and wear. Again, if Toyota serviced, should have been looked after

Can't think of anything else at present. It looks a pretty black list, but honestly, I've had 3 Landcruisers and I'd have another tomorrow. Even with just about ALL of those faults, one of these would cross a desert with not much more than an oil change and a top up of the radiator.

Get a decent example and use it for pottering around, it will serve you for years. I've just done 600 miles in mine this weekend. Went fine.

LC
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rosienoo
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 20:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked  OK, so nowhere near as bad as my Range Rover then  Laughing Saw a lovely S-Reg on autotrader, advert went in today (I've been looking) phoned up bloke and was told "gone innit" !! just my luck.  Full Service History and looked very clean, will just have to keep looking.
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gilghana
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 16:15    Post subject: Educate me on the 90? Reply with quote

Guys,
when we leave Ghana, and before embarking on our big Southern African trip we will spend 6 weeks in EU - UK, Spain, Germany/Austria maybe more.  I have been thinking about buying a vehicle either in EU or UK.  It needs to be a comfortable car doing big distances, gentle off-roading (mostly Spain & Austria) and also must be:
- A/C
- Diesel
- Decent mileage
Not too bothered about lockers etc or 5 door Vs 3 door.  When we are finished with it I would probably keep it with one of our family members, or just sell it on again.  I have been seriously considering a 90 series, but know absolutely nothing about them - all my Cruisers have been the "Heavy Duty" 80, 105, 78, 75, 79 1HZ engined and I need someone to point out the pros and cons of the 90s.  Obviously I am not looking to spend a large sum so it would be a good few years old.  I know cruisers well and am not frightened of old, high mileage vehicles, and am a competent home mechanic...  but don't want to spend travel time fixing stuff all the time (hence the Defender is not even under consideration!).  So if someone can point me away from known issues - HG failure etc...?  
I have spent a lot of time on autotrader and mobile.de and to be honest with the GBP/EUR being what it is the UK is a better option, and to be honest LCs in EU are priced a lot higher than in UK.  I would be really grateful for comments and education about these lighter duty LCs.  From what I have read here they are well liked, reliable vehicles.  I would not moddify or do anything other than decent tyres and baseline servicing.
Gil
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lucky
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 16:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gill.

Think of the 90 as an updated 78. Modern Independent Front suspension (limits the articulation a bit but on Coils so still pretty good for an IFS.

1KZT engine has been known to have head problems but nothing like the problems on the 2LT and 2LTE.

For gentle off roading, the 90 would be more than capable - quite a capable machine out of the box - maybe an 80 is slightly more cpabale but it is also bigger so for Spain and Austria a 90 may even be a better proposition.

Check it out good an proper when you first get it, keep it serviced, make sure the cooling system is tip top (new thermostat, full flush and using Toyota antifreeze) and it will serve you well. No really major issues on them other than the head on some of them but that is quite rare. Like all of the Toyota Diesels, if you abuse it (long gaps between oil changes, switching off after a high speed run without allowing the engine to idle for a bit) the Turbo can blow the seals after around 120K miles but again we are not talking about having to "baby" the engine - it's a strong and powerfull lump and will last almost as long as the 1H engines well maintained.
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gilghana
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 20:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks Andy,
really fancy a SWB - it seems you can get quite a lot of vehicle for your pound at the moment.  Can anyone let me know what is the standard tyre size (and what do people put on without suspension and body lifts) and what sort or mileage do people get on long distance motorway trips.  You are right, the 80 is great but I am looking for a general run-about and not such a big heavy vehicle.  
Gil
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uk_vette
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 21:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Gil,

I am not sure about the 3 door variant.
Much rather go for the 5 door.
The 3 door is rather small when you look inside, and I am sure you will come to the same conclusion.

'vette

ps, when are you heading over this way, say hello !
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 11:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, in respect of the 3 door, I'm probably one of the best to ask as most have the LWB. As I have had both, my main comments would be
Slightly less leg room on the swb for the driver. Something has to be shortened and it's not just the back end. I'm 6' and a big guy, so it matters to me. I still fit
No auto version so no cooling problems, manual pulls like a train and clutch is light, but some prefer auto. (you can get a Prado 3 door auto)
I think that the manual is lower geared and on motorways you feel like you need 6th. The auto pulls fewer revs I'm sure
Boot is still a decent size, but of course no rear seats (3rd row)

Other than that, you have the same engine pulling less metal around. That's about it really. I get the feeling that the swb is slightly less well equipped than the lwb, but in some odd areas. There isn't a boot light for example. Huh? I had to put one in. There are no rear power sockets. OK, I put those in too. Many come with a power roof though, most of which don't work. It's the only piece of Toyota hardware that I have found to be mostly broken. It made me wonder if they were fitted for Toyota to a price for UK market, but not BY Toyota.

You can get an FX 3 door which is a stripped out, no plastic flares, steel wheel version.

The rest of the issues are well covered on these pages. Look for rust around the top of the windscreen. It's about the only place that they go.

LC
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Bullwire
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 17:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here in Ireland there was no FX version, they were introduced as GL and GX and the GL was dropped after a few years.
The GL has no plastic mouldings, and no airbags and a 4.100 ratio drive and came stock with steel wheels and 215/80-16 tyres.
The GX had Chrome mirrors, airbags, wider plastic trim and a different ratio  drive 4.300 and 265/70-16 and alloy wheels.
I have the GL spec and TBH I don't really miss the extras, In 229k mls I have replaced the Rear shocks at 110k Starter around the same time, and at 150k I put a new Radiator and waterpump in, plus a couple of sets of tie-rod ends, and the rubber bushings that hold the Steering rack, Oh and the wiper linkage has just gone on me.

The head has not given any trouble (touch wood) and that may be due to the speedy installation of the new rad.
Tie-rod ends go because the plastic gaiter that covers it gets split or the clip fails and it slides around allowing dust and grit to get into the joint, I fitted genuine parts because the spurious ones look ok but only last half as long.

In my opinion I think the vehicle is the most reliable that I have owned, toyota have a good reputation but these are another class again.
They were more or less the pinnacle of the simple 4x4 series, and the original 1 KZTE is probably as reliable a lump as you an find outside of the 12HT
I don't really need the snorty power of the newer D4D engines and the simplicity of the design appeals to me.
I service mine every 5kmls with genuine toyota semi-synthetic and filters, New fuel filter every 10k and drained every service.

The three door has a decent area in the back obviously not as long as the 5dr but not too far off, the advantage is probably the side doors giving access to the rear compartment.
I have just ordered 5 BFG AT going from peoples recommedations they seem to be a very long lasting tyre. I wanted to fit the 265/75 to give a bit more height.
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 21:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to add, I have taken the rear seats out completely and lined it. It's a good size now. There's only me and the pooch ever go in it, so the area is better used for cargo and dead things.

This really reinforces the need to have a sticky on each forum to list the issues with each vehicle. Listing them every time that someone joins gets a bit tiresome. There aren't many, but they are quite common. Between wear out failures and the predictable 'unexpected' we have pretty much captured the main ones many times over.

How about a sticky, Simon? "What to look out for on an XXX"

LC
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gilghana
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 15:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks to all who responded - I appreciate that for most this is repetition and yes I agree that a sticky makes sense!  Will be regularly checking autotrader etc between now and when I decide...
Thanks all - much appreciated!
Gil
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Four Runner
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 0:58    Post subject: SWB 90 - buying info required please Reply with quote

I am thinking about buying a SWB 90 round about S reg is there think that I should look for when buying one
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Landcrusher
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the boards!

** admin edit ** sticky post now in place ** Simon thumbright


Sorry about that - but we seem to spend our life explaining the ins and outs of these vehicles, when there should be a thread on each one for new people to read. Let me try and find an appropriate thread where we have answered this before for someone.

LC

Here's another post with some useful info :
http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3975
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24Seven
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 19:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Pete

There is nothing major except the odd report on the rad failing between the water and the ATF side, this results in water in the auto gear box and the odd head problem much the same as a 3rd Gen.
Others have had problem with the rear diff locker.

All other problems are just minor niggles, handbrake is poor in design needing regular adjustment (Once a year for the MOT if you get an auto Smile )
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 20:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Err, sorry 247 there aren't any SWB autos in the Colorado. They're all manual. You can get a Prado in auto if you look around, but they're different altogether. I think that this is about UK spec purchase.

LC
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